JVIPER
New Member
I kinda hijacked an older thread so I thought I would start a new one with more specifics on my basement remodeling.
I rehabbed this 1950's ranch about four years ago in lovely Tyngsboro Ma, gutted it down to the studs and rebuilt everything, including a side foundation wall and basement floor. The wall was bowing in and had to come out along with the basement floor it was completely cracked. The space is 50x25 with only 2 columns, so its a nice open space, heres were the fun begins, the front wall and back wall are mostly original cinder block the replaced wall (10' of the front and back and 25' on side) is poured concrete and the floor was ripped out and lowered a few inches to create more headroom so now 2-3" of the original footing is visible. The other side wall is not totally an exterior wall because there is a garage on the other side this wall however is a large rock wall with a fireplace in it. But 5-7' of the rock is exterior wall. Also there are no windows in the basement at all only a door that leads to the garage.
2 years ago I had a humidity issue that caused minor mold due to the lack of ventilation, both problems have been corrected with the installation of a air to air exchange/ dehumidifier tied into the natural gas hvac and a ultraviolet light installed in the return plenam of the hvac. I now keep the humidity around 50% and never smell any musty or mildew scents in the basement. There is still a very small concern about the 60 year old concrete blocks letting water in. (a very small concern)
I am a big fan of overbuilding and really making sure I address everything to the best of my abilities. This being said I have been trolling all over the web reading and learning as much as I could over the past few years. Also waiting to see if any other moisture/humidity issues presented themselves. They have not.
My plan of attack is to clean the walls with a mold/mildew solution and then cover the walls halfway up with super thoroseal. Then secure at least 2" xps to the walls front, back and one side that is an exterior wall. Seal it all together and begin framing it in with 2x4 walls. I saw someone use a piece of trex decking with pt 2x4 as the bottom sill and I thought this would be better than just putting the pt on the floor for the walls. Then I will frame with regular lumber and insulate the 2x4 cavity with batts, there will be about an inch between the xps on the wall and the back of the batts because of the original footing that sticks out. Once all the wiring is done I will use durarock on the bottom half of the walls as an over precautionary measure, and blue board the rest. A coat of paint and walls are done.
Now for the floor. From a response I got from Dana I think I will use 6 mil poly and 1.5" xps and 0.5 plywood on the floor, half of the room will be tiled for a bar and pool table area and the other half carpeted for the theater room. Would it be ok if the xps is cut around the hvac that sits on the concrete? I really do not want to lift it. I dont have to worry about the water heater because its on the wall although I guess the same question applies, can I use xps around it?
The ceiling is already insulated with batts in the joist cavities and I would like to keep as much headroom as possible and keep it easy access to the plumbing, wiring and hvac ducting in case or future problems. So I do not want the sheetrock the ceiling I want to use .25" panel board and just cover the seams with trim. I probably will not even paint it. I figure it I leave a .75" to 1" gap between panels and use 2" trim this should be enough for expansion and contraction due to the fact that the panel will be very close to the hvac ducting although the ducting is covered in a thin layer of reflective insulation.
This is where I am kinda torn. I have enough space to put in a second household bathroom (stand up shower, no tub) should I ? The main drain pipe is halfway up the front wall so I will need a grinder and a pump. Are the failure rates on these things high enough to make them more a hassle than its worth.
Sorry this is so long but it seems there are many people here far more knowledgeable than most other forums I have visited. I am open to all thoughts and ideas, I have not started anything. All feedback is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jon
I rehabbed this 1950's ranch about four years ago in lovely Tyngsboro Ma, gutted it down to the studs and rebuilt everything, including a side foundation wall and basement floor. The wall was bowing in and had to come out along with the basement floor it was completely cracked. The space is 50x25 with only 2 columns, so its a nice open space, heres were the fun begins, the front wall and back wall are mostly original cinder block the replaced wall (10' of the front and back and 25' on side) is poured concrete and the floor was ripped out and lowered a few inches to create more headroom so now 2-3" of the original footing is visible. The other side wall is not totally an exterior wall because there is a garage on the other side this wall however is a large rock wall with a fireplace in it. But 5-7' of the rock is exterior wall. Also there are no windows in the basement at all only a door that leads to the garage.
2 years ago I had a humidity issue that caused minor mold due to the lack of ventilation, both problems have been corrected with the installation of a air to air exchange/ dehumidifier tied into the natural gas hvac and a ultraviolet light installed in the return plenam of the hvac. I now keep the humidity around 50% and never smell any musty or mildew scents in the basement. There is still a very small concern about the 60 year old concrete blocks letting water in. (a very small concern)
I am a big fan of overbuilding and really making sure I address everything to the best of my abilities. This being said I have been trolling all over the web reading and learning as much as I could over the past few years. Also waiting to see if any other moisture/humidity issues presented themselves. They have not.
My plan of attack is to clean the walls with a mold/mildew solution and then cover the walls halfway up with super thoroseal. Then secure at least 2" xps to the walls front, back and one side that is an exterior wall. Seal it all together and begin framing it in with 2x4 walls. I saw someone use a piece of trex decking with pt 2x4 as the bottom sill and I thought this would be better than just putting the pt on the floor for the walls. Then I will frame with regular lumber and insulate the 2x4 cavity with batts, there will be about an inch between the xps on the wall and the back of the batts because of the original footing that sticks out. Once all the wiring is done I will use durarock on the bottom half of the walls as an over precautionary measure, and blue board the rest. A coat of paint and walls are done.
Now for the floor. From a response I got from Dana I think I will use 6 mil poly and 1.5" xps and 0.5 plywood on the floor, half of the room will be tiled for a bar and pool table area and the other half carpeted for the theater room. Would it be ok if the xps is cut around the hvac that sits on the concrete? I really do not want to lift it. I dont have to worry about the water heater because its on the wall although I guess the same question applies, can I use xps around it?
The ceiling is already insulated with batts in the joist cavities and I would like to keep as much headroom as possible and keep it easy access to the plumbing, wiring and hvac ducting in case or future problems. So I do not want the sheetrock the ceiling I want to use .25" panel board and just cover the seams with trim. I probably will not even paint it. I figure it I leave a .75" to 1" gap between panels and use 2" trim this should be enough for expansion and contraction due to the fact that the panel will be very close to the hvac ducting although the ducting is covered in a thin layer of reflective insulation.
This is where I am kinda torn. I have enough space to put in a second household bathroom (stand up shower, no tub) should I ? The main drain pipe is halfway up the front wall so I will need a grinder and a pump. Are the failure rates on these things high enough to make them more a hassle than its worth.
Sorry this is so long but it seems there are many people here far more knowledgeable than most other forums I have visited. I am open to all thoughts and ideas, I have not started anything. All feedback is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jon