we have a 16 inch rough-in andcannot find a tolet ith a 16 inch roughin anywhere

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nancyann

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we removed an old toilet and discovered that the waste hole in the tiled floor is 16 inches from the tiled (old green tile) wall. I have notbeen able to find a 16inch rough-in toilet. any suggestion?
 

Jadnashua

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Nobody that I'm aware of currently makes (or made?!) for that matter a toilet with a 16" rough-in. Any toilet will fit on what you have, but there will be a space (maybe big) behind it to the wall. There are 10, 12, and 14" rough-ins. Your best choice to minimize the projection of the toilet into the room and minimize the space behind it, would be a 14" rough-in toilet. Keep in mind that most toilets designed for 14" are really one for 12" with a thicker tank to hide it; i.e., they often use the same bowl that projects forward from the toilet flange. The only one that actually adjusts the postion of the whole toilet is a Toto that utilizes the UniFit adapter. This takes the same toilet, and depending on the adapter you use, positions it so it will fit on either a 12, or 10 or 14" (the 12" is standard, the 10 and 14" adapters are an extra cost option). It keeps the front of the toilet at exactly the same place, not sticking out into the room more than necessary. And, no, you can't use this on any toilet, only those Totos specifically designed for it (and not all are).

https://terrylove.com/wc/unifit.htm
 
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1930's Home Owner

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I'm dealing with this problem right now.

Anyone have a suggested work around that aesthetically looks good (eg: a porcelain filler between the toilet tank and the wall) and doesn't cause me to have to re tile since the original tile is still in very good condition.
 
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Reach4

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I had a little over 13 inch rough in. I had a 14 inch Unifit adapter handy, but with careful measurement, I determined that the the 12 inch unifit could be positioned to not have any blockage on the Unifit output on the old 4-inch cast iron closet flange. I drilled new holes.

If you were to do something like that with a 14 inch Unifit, I think you could pretty much have a 1 inch gap behind the toilet, which would not look bad aesthetically. In the picture, you can see that the original slots intended for the closet bolt are not being used. The Vespin 2 toilet covers it all, but it could have any of the toilets that use the Unifit.
index.php
The screws on the left of the picture are the original closet bolts, and two deck screws were added to make sure things were nice and tight. They might have been unneeded, but I wanted to make sure. The fender washers are stainless steel.

It took a lot of time, especially being sure there would be no interference in the flow. I don't know if a pro could justify this, since it is not something that Toto recommends. But I am confident it is effective.
 
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1930's Home Owner

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I'm dealing with this problem right now.

Anyone have a suggested work around that aesthetically looks good (eg: a porcelain filler between the toilet tank and the wall) and doesn't cause me to have to re tile since the original tile is still in very good condition.


Ok, I started to look at this problem from the perspective of the Historic High Tank Toilets that have a separate tank and bowl. This lead me in a different direction. There is a version of the same Toilet called a Pacific Style Toilet. All they did is lower the tank and place it closer to the bowl. Here are links to both reproduction toilets and the Ell required to connect them together. This solves the leaks without having to reinvent the floor cutout, re tile the floor, re tile the wall and or create a filler between the tank and the wall.

Low Tank Toilet
Flush Toilet Ells
 
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