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Thread: Thermostatic shower system 1/2" enough or need 3/4"??

  1. #16
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    The name is Jado, not Jalo, but we seldom use them.
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  2. #17
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    If you intend to use PEX, then forget the previous statements. Then you DO need 3/4" just to have the same volume available that 1/2" copper would have given you.
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  3. #18
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    no it's really Jalo and I will use copper

  4. #19
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    http://www.jalo.ca/AWSFILES/DOCS/135...6000-00-XX.pdf

    IS this your stuff?

    Looks like you will need a couple of 1/2" MPT fittings and from there you pick. I would sent the valve all the water it can handle and from there the real piping begins.

    Are you going to balance all the spray heads?

    JW


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  5. #20
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    It's actually http://www.jalo.ca/AWSFILES/DOCS/135...6001-00-XX.pdf

    I was going to install like the diagram below
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  6. #21
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    What size supply you can live with will depend somewhat on how you use it...if you open all of the valves, then your flow would try to be the sum of all devices, and 1/2" is unlikely to provide you with enough flow to provide satisfactory outputs of any of them. If you want the ability to run all at the same time with decent functional pressure, I think you need 3/4" feeding things, and that's not pex, that's copper.
    Jim DeBruycker
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  7. #22
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    i agree 3/4 copper to run everything at once, but as i mentionned, i will never use more than 2/3 at a time. like one other poster said my water talnk would be empty in mins and would live to enjoy more than a few mins with the wife (maybe i should go with 1/4" so I can get the longest time out of my tank)

  8. #23
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    the piping to the "accessoire #2 jets de corp", (Quebec for accessory body sprays), can be piped more effectively using a sideways "H" pattern with the feed to the middle of the crossbar. Then ALL the jets will be equidistant from the feed pipe. Aesthically, I would mount the thermostatic valve lower, since it will seldom be readjusted, then install the volume controls in a horizontal or vertical line above the thermostatic valve. If the name is Jalo, rather than Jado, then I wonder if they are "knockoffs" like the watches which were called "Omego", "Rollex", or "Buloba". Names close enough to the real ones to be misunderstood if just glanced at.
    Last edited by hj; 11-20-2011 at 06:41 AM.
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  9. #24
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcu View Post
    It's actually http://www.jalo.ca/AWSFILES/DOCS/135...6001-00-XX.pdf

    I was going to install like the diagram below
    Not loving the piping diagram. You will have more pressure on the right wall and less on the left wall.

    The body jets should be placed so they hit the area of the body you and your partner want. ie; "Privates", "Small of Back", "Shoulders", "Neck", "Back Side" etc.

    If you want then to keep warm while shampooing your hair then they should be spread apart to head more of your body.

    Carefull the jets don't hit the door. If they do there is a chance water will escape the shower. A deflector at the doors bottom can help here a little but ideally the jets spray does not hit the door at all.

    A plumbing rig like this might even out the pressure better. Check with your plumber first.



    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    ...can be piped more effectively using a sideways "H" pattern with the feed to the middle of the crossbar. Then ALL the jets will be equidistant from the feed pipe.
    HJ is my sketch close to what you spec'd?




    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 11-20-2011 at 09:38 AM.


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  10. #25
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    That looks even more convoluted than the first drawing.

  11. #26
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlarrivee View Post
    That looks even more convoluted than the first drawing.
    How so. The water is split 50/50 to top and bottom and then is split between left and right. This way the body jets get the same pressure. You could make it even harder if you try and factor in the bends around the corner but I think this design will give more even pressure than the first spec shown.


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    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  12. #27
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    HJ, I am not quite sure I understand the H way or piping it. Would it be too much to make a diagram for me real quick? The shower is 44x96 with a 12x44 bench (so in reality floor space is 44x84), but I was wondering since it's such a long shower, should I place the wand on the side wall with the two jets and the shower head on the wall with controls and two other jets. I would of loved to put the showerhead hanging from the ceiling, but above the ceiling is my attic (worried about the cold) and did not want to lower my ceiling height by making a fake ceiling for the pipes.

  13. #28
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    There is another diagram on this thread showing perhaps what HJ is suggesting.

    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...ing-Body-Jets&


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  14. #29
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Nope! Draw the letter "H", turn it on its side and put a wall jet on each "end", then connect a pipe to the center of the crossbar. ALL the jets will be the same distance from the connection, although getting them ALL exactly the same is not too important. Doesn't sound too complicated to me, but then I know what I am describing. I have NEVER installed a "balancing loop" because they are more aesthetic than practical.
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  15. #30
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    Nope! Draw the letter "H", turn it on its side and put a wall jet on each "end", then connect a pipe to the center of the crossbar. ALL the jets will be the same distance from the connection, although getting them ALL exactly the same is not too important. Doesn't sound too complicated to me, but then I know what I am describing. I have NEVER installed a "balancing loop" because they are more aesthetic than practical.
    Looks like a good plan. Is this right HJ?

    *--------------------*
    ............|
    ............|
    ............|------------------ Water Line to Jets
    ............|
    ............|
    *--------------------*

    * = Body Jet


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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