Solenoid Failure?

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Ballvalve

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Solenoids get buggered up with dirt and dust and then require more voltage to overcome it. Especially if buried in some part near the logs. Silicone spray helps solenoids last a long time, some are mixed with anti-corrosive elements.
 

BobL43

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Turning the solenoid off seems to require a lot less voltage than turning it on. So, if the battery started to get weak, you would (in theory) be able to shut the burners, without being able to turn them back on. In fact, that's my whole problem. The latch, which is activated by the solenoid, closes no matter what kind of batteries I use. However, even after I wired a 9 volt to the 6 volt receiver box, the latch eventually got stuck again when I tried to turn on the burners.

Short of hooking up a car battery to the solenoid, :eek: I'm fresh out of ideas and will have to wait for the new parts to come... unless there's a way to take the solenoid apart and lubricate the latch or replace the spring??

I'm a pretty handy guy; I've replaced propane heater gas valves on millivolt systems and 24 VAC systems, I've made and calibrated my own water collumn pressure gauges, BUT I would NEVER tinker with the gas valve itself and try to repair it, ESPECIALLY one that is in the house. Yes, I would disect the valve, see what makes it tick, etc. but never, ever trust my ablilities or lack thereof to fix it. Your Mileage may vary, but I don't want to be responsible for blowing up my house.
 

Kiko

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The solenoid screws into the gas valve and is a replaceable part. I have to remove the old one to replace it anyway, so I will have a good look at it to see if it is gunked up.
 

DonL

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One of the problems with solenoids that operate on DC is that the Frame can become Magnetized.

You may want to use a VHS bulk tape eraser or the such, and try to demagnetize the Valve.

Sounds Crazy but I have seen that on cheep valves and relays that don't use stainless or isolated frames.
 

BobL43

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One of the problems with solenoids that operate on DC is that the Frame can become Magnetized.

You may want to use a VHS bulk tape eraser or the such, and try to demagnetize the Valve.

Sounds Crazy but I have seen that on cheep valves and relays that don't use stainless or isolated frames.
I have an armature growler that would do the job!:D
 

DonL

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If you want to lower the voltage of the coil, You can remove a few turns from it.

The voltage goes down, But the current goes up...

Playing with Gas Valves can be a very Moonlighting experience.
 
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BobL43

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If you want to lower the voltage of the coil, You can remove a few turns from it.

The voltage goes down, But the current goes up...

Playing with Gas Valves can be a very Moonlighting experience.
As Ralph Cramden used to say "one of these days, Bam, off to the moon"?
 

Kiko

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If you want to lower the voltage of the coil, You can remove a few turns from it.

The voltage goes down, But the current goes up...

Wouldn't removing a few turns from the coil reduce the strength of the electromagnet, thus making it even more difficult to open that sticky latch?
 

BobL43

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Wouldn't removing a few turns from the coil reduce the strength of the electromagnet, thus making it even more difficult to open that sticky latch?
How would you possibly unwind the coil? Isn't it impregnated with epoxy or varnish?
 

DonL

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Wouldn't removing a few turns from the coil reduce the strength of the electromagnet, thus making it even more difficult to open that sticky latch?

I would not recommend messing with the gas valve.

But the mag field is still high because the current goes up, More Power. In theory.

The amount of turns and gauge of wire is what sets the operating voltage range.

That Gas coil may have a limit resistor in series with it. And probable is encapsulated.
 

Kiko

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I would not recommend messing with the gas valve.

But the mag field is still high because the current goes up, More Power. In theory.

The amount of turns and gauge of wire is what sets the operating voltage range.

That Gas coil may have a limit resistor in series with it. And probable is encapsulated.

Oh, so that's why a 9 volt works better than 4 AA's, because the greater voltage creates more amperage, and thus more power?

BTW, I keep repeating that the solenoid is replaceable and simply screws into the gas valve.
Supposedly, at long last, they are mailing me out a replacement. Hopefully, I'll get it by Christmas. :)
 

RYounk007

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Oh, so that's why a 9 volt works better than 4 AA's, because the greater voltage creates more amperage, and thus more power?

BTW, I keep repeating that the solenoid is replaceable and simply screws into the gas valve.
Supposedly, at long last, they are mailing me out a replacement. Hopefully, I'll get it by Christmas. :)

Reviving an old thread here....

I am having the exact same problem with what sounds like the exact same unit. Jumping the wires with the 9V, I can switch the main burner on and off. However, I believe my remote receiver unit may be completely fried, as it is no longer making any beeping, even when using the "learn" button. It is also not able to turn the burner off (not sure from your description if yours was able to or not). Did you see the same result (no beeping) from your unit while the solenoid was busted?

Also, any tips dealing with ProCom on getting the parts replaced under warranty? Was the solenoid the fix and as easy as it sounds? This unit was already installed in the house that I bought, so I don't have a receipt.

Thanks!
 

BobL43

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Reviving an old thread here....

I am having the exact same problem with what sounds like the exact same unit. Jumping the wires with the 9V, I can switch the main burner on and off. However, I believe my remote receiver unit may be completely fried, as it is no longer making any beeping, even when using the "learn" button. It is also not able to turn the burner off (not sure from your description if yours was able to or not). Did you see the same result (no beeping) from your unit while the solenoid was busted?

Also, any tips dealing with ProCom on getting the parts replaced under warranty? Was the solenoid the fix and as easy as it sounds? This unit was already installed in the house that I bought, so I don't have a receipt.

Thanks!
Just refer to my post #23;I'm not trying to be a smart ass
(I already am one I guess, lol)
 

DonL

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Post #23 reads;

I'm a pretty handy guy; I've replaced propane heater gas valves on millivolt systems and 24 VAC systems, I've made and calibrated my own water collumn pressure gauges, BUT I would NEVER tinker with the gas valve itself and try to repair it, ESPECIALLY one that is in the house. Yes, I would disect the valve, see what makes it tick, etc. but never, ever trust my ablilities or lack thereof to fix it. Your Mileage may vary, but I don't want to be responsible for blowing up my house.


If the coil is good then the valve may be sticking and should be replaced.


Have fun, and be safe doing it.
 

Kiko

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Reviving an old thread here....

I am having the exact same problem with what sounds like the exact same unit. Jumping the wires with the 9V, I can switch the main burner on and off. However, I believe my remote receiver unit may be completely fried, as it is no longer making any beeping, even when using the "learn" button. It is also not able to turn the burner off (not sure from your description if yours was able to or not). Did you see the same result (no beeping) from your unit while the solenoid was busted?

Also, any tips dealing with ProCom on getting the parts replaced under warranty? Was the solenoid the fix and as easy as it sounds? This unit was already installed in the house that I bought, so I don't have a receipt.

Thanks!


There was always beeping coming from the old receiver, and it always was able to turn off the gas valve, since that required less voltage.

ProCom sent me a new remote receiver and solenoid. I replaced the receiver first and it worked just fine, so I just kept the solenoid as a spare.
 
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