Nearly punctured a 1 1/4" copper line

So, I've got a bit of a problem. While putting up some tile backer I accidentally drilled through a sole plate and hit a 1 1/4" copper pipe with a screw. As soon as I hit it I knew what happened and backed the screw out. It didn't actually puncture the pipe (i.e. it still holds pressure just fine), but there's a divot in the pipe. It's literally about 1/4" above where it comes out of the slab. I figure the "right" way to fix this is to cut it off and solder in a coupler. Unfortunately that will require cutting out the sole plate, jackhammering up some of the slab, and probably destroying the tile around the repair (which will probably require retiling the whole bathroom because I can't find that tile anymore), all for a leak that I don't even have yet.

So, I'm looking for some advice here. I've read online about "plumbers epoxy" and just clamping some rubber with a pipe clamp around it. I've read that these are not particularly well received by professionals, but perhaps they're not that bad given that there's not yet a leak? I've also thought about splitting a 1 1/4" coupling in half and soldering that to the outside.

What do you guys think?

If done right, tile can be removed fine....the only issue is regrouting and getting that to match.


Go figure. I had my kitchen done 6 years go. Every night, I would go home....and one night, when the crew was gone for the day, I went to lift the subfloor to vac the debris created when the demoed.....and left all the demo rubbish that fell underneath ontop of the floor ceiling below.

When I back off one screw holding the subfloor, water was spewing everywhere. I quickly went to main, shut that off and solder/coupler I did.
Sorry to skew off topic, but these are one of many reasons why I tend to DIY. Takes me alot longer however.

Thanks Chef Wong. I've attached a picture that might help (?) You can see the gouge the right above the slab. (I already removed the really thin sliver of sole plate so I could better see what was going on) You can see that there's a steel strap there that's supposed to keep this from happening. Unfortunately the strap has a few holes in it to facilitate nailing to the studs and I got unlucky...

As for removing the tile, I've never had any luck doing that. Maybe with smaller tiles and maybe if the thinset is only a few months old. These are 20" tiles and they've been there for 30 years. I doubt I'll be able to get one up without breaking it.

I like the 1/2 coupler soldered on and maybe wired on with copper wire which can be soldered too.

Been browsing around a bit. What do you guys think of these things: http://www.uspvh.com/Downloads/Section5.1.pdf Seems like it should work until the rubber wears out.

If you get a repair coupling (i.e., one made to join two pieces together, but does not have the stop in the middle), then cut it so that it is slightly larger than 1/2 of a circle. Clean things up well, flux it, then snap it over. You can solder on that coupling to protect that ding. It may not be necessary, but will ensure it is fine in the long run. Getting all of the water out of the line may be a problem, and you won't get it hot enough to solder if you don't. Also, don't burn down the house in the process!

You mentioned steel strap. Is that a copper clad steel strap or plain jane steel strap.

You may want to remove the strap, afaik, due to dielectric corriosion.
They may both copper clad steel strap and also rubber coated hangers.

Are you sure this is a supply line? 1 1/4" is pretty big for a residential supply line. If it's a drain, I wouldn't be too concerned about it developing a leak. Get a fernco, split lengthwise & clamp it on.

It's definitely a supply line. It's copper. I suppose one could use copper for a drain. Regardless, it comes out of the slab and immediately goes into a few tees that supply the lav, the toilet and the shower.

Oh, and chefwong. The strap is plain jane steel, but it was put there as a nail stop. It's not in physical contact with any of the pipes.

leave an access plate for future inspection.

It is probably a 1" copper line, because 1 1/4" would be more likely in a commercial application, NOT a residence, unless this is is an apartment type complex, but if it is, YOU should not be doing the repair because of potential future liability.

It's definitely a 1 1/4" line and it definitely is a single family residence. No idea why this line is so big. I ended up putting one of those screw clamp things on it with the rubber clamped tight against the tube. Hard to tell if it sealed properly given that it's not actually leaking, but it'll at least let me sleep better at night.

It is not DEFINITELY an 1 1/4" line.

1" nominal would be 1 1/8" OD...

1 1/4" nominal would be 1 3/8" OD.

Let me guess, it's closer to 1 1/8" when you take a tape measure to it?

I know it's 1 1/4" because I bought a 1" coupler and a 1 1/4" coupler thinking I might use them to fix the thing. There's no way the 1" coupler would go onto this line.

I also know because about 20 feet from this location is a place where the line comes out of the slab, goes through 2 elbows, and then goes right back into the slab. Why? Beats me. I've no idea why they did that. Anyway, it was helpful about 2 years ago because I wanted an icemaker in a fridge that I use to hold just beer and I was able to cut into that line to get my water. It was 1 1/4" also. Or I should say, I used 1 1/4" copper fittings and I really doubt they would have worked on 1" copper line.

If you have a good torch and can get the water to drain from the line then you could spot heat the pipe where the divot is and hit it with silver solder. If done correctly the pipe will be as strong there as the original pipe.