Install Tub Shower Combo without Tub Filler

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hormy_83

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We are remodeling our bathroom, which includes ripping out our prior shower stall and re-tiling it. My wife picked out a shower head / tub filler combo at the local big box store, and it comes with a 4 port valve. She picked the Moen Varese

My question is, since this is a shower stall, I have no need for the tub filler, but have not found this Moen head without it. So there are 3 things I was thinking I could do - either buy a 3 port valve and use that with this, cap the tub filler port on the valve when I install it, or bring the tub filler valve up and T it into the shower supply line. What is the best solution?

moen_varese.jpg
 
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LLigetfa

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Some people will pipe the tub spout outlet to a wall union to use as a toe tester which can also be used as a short spout close to the floor to draw water for cleaning.
 

hormy_83

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Thanks for the replies! I also spoke to Moen and they said this valve is able to be installed upside down - I just have to remove the cartridge and reinstall that right side up. So I will do that and cap the valve that is pointed down (original shower valve).
 

JohnjH2o1

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Why would you install the valve upside down? Just cap the spout.

John
 

hormy_83

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Why would you install the valve upside down? Just cap the spout.

John

They said because the valve to the bath filler provides more pressure than the valve up to the shower head. So if you only will be using one, you may as well use the one that allows more pressure through.
 

JohnjH2o1

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You can only get 2.5 gallons per min. out of the shower head no matter what size the opening in the valve is.

John
 

hormy_83

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Yes, they did say the shower head would still limit the amount of water coming out. But I think they made some comment about if there was any water pressure fluctuation in the house it may be better to have it installed this way. I also figured if I change the head / add a hand held shower it may be nice. It really isn't any more difficult installing it one way or the other - so why not?
 

BobL43

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Yes, they did say the shower head would still limit the amount of water coming out. But I think they made some comment about if there was any water pressure fluctuation in the house it may be better to have it installed this way. I also figured if I change the head / add a hand held shower it may be nice. It really isn't any more difficult installing it one way or the other - so why not?
Sweat soldering is the same; what did you really mean by is it more difficult? Either way, you need to cap off the bottom port. I don't know if the valve you have is the sweat type Terry has shown or if it has thread ports, but the work involved would be the same. If you sweat it, the cartridge needs to be removed first anyway so its components won't get damaged by the heat.
 

hormy_83

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It wasn't a question as to if it is more difficult, sorry - that was more of a statement on it isn't more difficult to install in right side up or upside down. But you are right, the valve that came with ours is threaded, and I'm going to be using copper for everything and soldering it all - so I will have the cartridge removed while doing that.
 

Terry

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hj commonly mentions flipping the valve upside down if it's being used as a shower only.

You do get more volume that way. And if you are adding more shower heads, it may be noticeable.
 

JohnjH2o1

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Thanks Terry I see his point. Sorry about the DBL post not quite sure how that happened.

John
 
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Jadnashua

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Note that many of the rough-in valves that are threaded (male) allow you to insert the pipe into the fitting and solder it directly into the valve without any other fittings. Soldering it provides a bit more support and is immune to lousy female threaded fittings you may have that are difficult to seal properly.
 

hormy_83

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Note that many of the rough-in valves that are threaded (male) allow you to insert the pipe into the fitting and solder it directly into the valve without any other fittings. Soldering it provides a bit more support and is immune to lousy female threaded fittings you may have that are difficult to seal properly.

Awesome - thanks for the heads up. I just looked at it for a few seconds when the wife brought it home. I'll look at it closer before installing it - that would be nice!
 

Mr Obvious

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Can the bottom port of the shower valve be used for anything but the tub? I see no point in taking a 1/2 supply line to a diverter from the shower valve when I'll have 4 fixtures that are 2 gpm.
I'm about to remodel my shower and the existing Delta valve has the bottom port, which is capped off.
I have another identical Delta valve and trim kit lying around so I'm tempted to put it on the opposite wall for the body sprays, each valve having its own designated hot and cold. But I'm not crazy on how it will look.
A diverter on the opposite wall would be better simply because it's almost half the size of the shower trim. It'd be great to take the port for the tub over to the diverter
 

Terry

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It'd be great to take the port for the tub over to the diverter

The tub/shower valve outputs from the top and the bottom. You do get more volume from the lower "tub" outlet than the reduced in size "shower" port. It's kind of pushing it to run four heads at once. You may want to check the specs first on that.
 

Mr Obvious

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I know the the bottom has more volume, that's why I was grasping at straws. I was on the phone with Delta today and the gentleman insisted that the diverter would handle it. I laughed and told him I plan to use the body sprays and shower heads at the same time. The hand shower will probably be only used to clean the shower.
If I center the 2nd valve to match the existing. it's going to look a little crowded with the body sprays.
This wasn't planned for, so I had planned to use what I have instead of buying all new fixtures, so we can spend the extra on enlarging the shower
 

hj

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Moen valves, because of the stop tube with the ridge on top, should NOT be inverted. Otherwise the handle has to be installed upside down to engage the stop tube.
 
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