BobJacobs
New Member
I normally use wire nuts to splice inside a box.
However I have one situation I think butt splice may be justified. I have a #12 stranded copper wire protruding barely 1.5" from the knock out hole inside the box. The previous owner had twisted a wire nut to it and an additional 8" piece, and now the nut is half way inside the connector and appeared strained. There is just no room to use wire nut in this situation.
I looked at replacing the wire completely with a longer run, but the conduit is quite full with a mix of solid and stranded and the other end is over eighty feet away and when I pulled the wire from that end a little, it didn't move, indications that perhaps there may be other intermediate junction boxes up in the attic and I am trying to avoid getting up there if possible.
I am thinking perhaps in this case, a butt splice may be my best bet?
I am not a pro, so my tools are limited and I don't have any special crimp tool. I found this particular connector.
Tyco Electronics SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 12-10, 10/Clam
More technical specifications found here.
http://www.raytech.co.at/products/PDF/ELECDEVS/SLDRGRIP.PDF?PHPSESSID=55624da5b720d20cea136e4a4f8911de
It seems this would be a pretty strong connection, combining adhesive, solder, and a heat shrink tube.
What I am wondering is if this type of butt splice connectors are designed to use for 110v line voltage or is it more for low voltage or automotive applications?
If I could use this type of connectors, I am curious, in order to get the solder to melt I need to set the heat gun to a HIGH setting, and since this wire is inside a metal box near the lip of a connector, I can push all the wires aside, but there are two other wires coming out of the same connector into the box, will the heat gun's heat end up melting the insulation of the other adjacent wires?
Thank you in advance for any comments and responses.
Bob
However I have one situation I think butt splice may be justified. I have a #12 stranded copper wire protruding barely 1.5" from the knock out hole inside the box. The previous owner had twisted a wire nut to it and an additional 8" piece, and now the nut is half way inside the connector and appeared strained. There is just no room to use wire nut in this situation.
I looked at replacing the wire completely with a longer run, but the conduit is quite full with a mix of solid and stranded and the other end is over eighty feet away and when I pulled the wire from that end a little, it didn't move, indications that perhaps there may be other intermediate junction boxes up in the attic and I am trying to avoid getting up there if possible.
I am thinking perhaps in this case, a butt splice may be my best bet?
I am not a pro, so my tools are limited and I don't have any special crimp tool. I found this particular connector.
Tyco Electronics SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 12-10, 10/Clam
More technical specifications found here.
http://www.raytech.co.at/products/PDF/ELECDEVS/SLDRGRIP.PDF?PHPSESSID=55624da5b720d20cea136e4a4f8911de
It seems this would be a pretty strong connection, combining adhesive, solder, and a heat shrink tube.
What I am wondering is if this type of butt splice connectors are designed to use for 110v line voltage or is it more for low voltage or automotive applications?
If I could use this type of connectors, I am curious, in order to get the solder to melt I need to set the heat gun to a HIGH setting, and since this wire is inside a metal box near the lip of a connector, I can push all the wires aside, but there are two other wires coming out of the same connector into the box, will the heat gun's heat end up melting the insulation of the other adjacent wires?
Thank you in advance for any comments and responses.
Bob