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Thread: Delta R1000 installation question.

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member bigwooo's Avatar
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    Default Delta R1000 installation question.

    I'm installing a Delta R1000 rough in valve body into new construction. I'm not a plumber, but because of lack of resources here in Mexico where I'm building, I have to install it myself.

    I have a question about the location of the front of the plastiguard bonnet. The instructions say it should be flush with the wall. Do they mean flush with the unfinished wall, or should it be mounted so that the front of the plastiguard will be flush with the anticipated level of the finished and tiled wall?

    Thanks...again.

  2. #2
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    The manual I downloaded for my R10000 series said the face of the plasterguard should be flush with the finished wall line.

  3. #3
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    I don't know if you typo'd and dropped a 0 so I am going by document DSP-B-T17038_Rev_A_df49.pdf

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member bigwooo's Avatar
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    Thank you...yes, it's a typo. Didn't have my glasses on .

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member bigwooo's Avatar
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    I found the document and downloaded it. That set of instructions is much more detailed than those that came with the valve body. Thank you!

  6. #6
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    When the face of the "plaster guard" is flush with the "anticipated" FINISHED wall surface, there is a degree of latitude +/- for variations in the final construction.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  7. #7
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Note that if you don't install a CARTRIDGE right away with that, you have to install a plug inside, not just the test cap, or you will have hot/cold crossover unitl you put in the cart.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member bigwooo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo View Post
    Note that if you don't install a CARTRIDGE right away with that, you have to install a plug inside, not just the test cap, or you will have hot/cold crossover unitl you put in the cart.
    Didn't think of that. I'm I correct in assuming I can pressure test the system with only the test cap in place though?

  9. #9
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Yes, it can be pressure tested but if you didn't get the rough-in body that has integral shut-offs or if you did not install in-line shut-offs, you will get crossover blending.

    When I was installing mine, I had my weekend all planned out to do it. I had ordered the rough-in without the integral valves and unbeknownst to me, the cartridge was back ordered. I had the water shutoff and the rough-in sweated in when I realized I had no cartridge and had to get my supplier to lend me a different model cartridge so that I could use water in the house without blending the hot and cold.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member bigwooo's Avatar
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    Thanks, I do have the cartridge, but I want to keep the protective cap on until all the plastering and tile is completed. I'm installing in rough block construction, which is a whole new experience. Plumbing in wood frame construction is SO much easier than working with block

    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    Yes, it can be pressure tested but if you didn't get the rough-in body that has integral shut-offs or if you did not install in-line shut-offs, you will get crossover blending.

    When I was installing mine, I had my weekend all planned out to do it. I had ordered the rough-in without the integral valves and unbeknownst to me, the cartridge was back ordered. I had the water shutoff and the rough-in sweated in when I realized I had no cartridge and had to get my supplier to lend me a different model cartridge so that I could use water in the house without blending the hot and cold.

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