Leaking copper pipe with green crap

[mz4wheeler]

I've attached 3 photos of my main water pipe with a SUPER SLOW leak. One drip every 10 minutes or so. It has green corroded stuff all around. In the photo, it is the top joint, the smaller 3/4" pipe with the 90 degree angle.

My question is, can I simply shut off the main water, drain the pipe, clean the fitting forst with a wire brush, followed by lots of flux, and re-solder it? That would be easiest.

Or should I refit a new section. The problem is that I can barely reach this pipe because of it's location. I believe I can hit it with a propane torch.

Thanks in advance!

Mike

[Terry]

Heating the outside of the pipe won't do much for the leak.

Cutting out that section is the best solution.

[bigrebnc1861]

My goodness some plumber didn't finish the job by wiping the joint down . This is what I do when I have a leak, I drain the line down wipe the joint down with another layer of flux, and re-solder the joint useing MAPP gas instead of propane 8 times out of 10 this will work for me. But when it doesn't I will break the joint lose by re-heating the pipe and clean the fitting with a fitting brush, and re-sanding the pipe and adding flux . BUT REMEMBER ALWAYES USE MAPP GAS IT'S HOTTER THEN PROPANE AND SOLDER'S BETTER. After you have finished the job wipe your fitting down, because after time that green buildup of flux left on the pipe will wear your joint down.

[Cass]

I agree with bigrebnc1861 but I would also pull off the 90 and clean both peices of pipe and install a new 90 ($.50) I wouldn't use the old 90. Do it once and be done.

[hj]

Once water enters a joint at a leak, the copper is contaminated and there is no way to get flux to flow into it anyway. Even a fairly new joint would be difficult to resolder properly after a leak. There is no way you would ever get a joint that is corroded, like your is, to accept solder. All you would do is create a solder bead at the surface of the joint, and that is probably what you had originally which is why it started to leak.

[mz4wheeler]

Thanks to all for the advice. I think I need to pull off the old 90 (If I can) and put in a new one... If I can. This fitting is recessed about 2 feet and I may not be able to reach it. I barely had room for the camera [grin].

I did learn something new... The green stuff is flux. Need to clean it off.

Thanks again!

[Terry]

Nothing is impossible,

Somethings just take more time and money.

A taller ladder may help, and heating ducts can be removed if needed.

[bigrebnc1861]

Once water enters a joint at a leak, the copper is contaminated and there is no way to get flux to flow into it anyway. Even a fairly new joint would be difficult to resolder properly after a leak. There is no way you would ever get a joint that is corroded, like your is, to accept solder. All you would do is create a solder bead at the surface of the joint, and that is probably what you had originally which is why it started to leak.

Maybe I should have made myself a little more clear, when I said add a layer of flux. Adding a little more flux's only helps to break down the solder. and sometime when someone has a leak on copper is they did not allow the heat to flow all the way around the pipe, or they didn't allow the solder to flow around the pipe. That is when you can re-solder a copper joint.

[chipshot]

So, what specifically does flux do?

[mz4wheeler]

Maybe I should have made myself a little more clear, when I said add a layer of flux. Adding a little more flux's only helps to break down the solder. and sometime when someone has a leak on copper is they did not allow the heat to flow all the way around the pipe, or they didn't allow the solder to flow around the pipe. That is when you can re-solder a copper joint.

Are you saying that I could resolder the pipe?

[bigrebnc1861]

Yes that is correct, just make sure you have the water drained off. For the most part 8 times out of 10 it will work. You can even sweat the fitting lose and replace it with a new one. But I would try re-soldering first, and then go from there. One more thing if the fitting start's to trun black that means you are burning it, and then you should replace it. I have even re-solder 3 inch copper that had a crack almost half way around the joint. The orignal connection was made by a ex-coworker

[plumber1]

I really agree with the men who will cut that bad stuff off and redo with new.
Might not leak and might look ok BUT........
I'd feel better when I went home after being paid to do a good job.

[hj]

Are you saying that I could resolder the pipe?

No, I am saying that it is almost impossible to resolder a joint properly once water has leaked through it, even if it is a new joint and especially if it is an old one like yours.

[Gary Swart]

I can't give you the scientific explaination of what flux does, but from the practical side, flux literally sucks the molten solder into the joint. If you attempt to solder without flux, the solder will not flow into the joint and the joint will not only leak, it will pull apart. Obviously there is some kind of chemical reaction.

[Cass]

Flux alowes the soder to stick/flow on to copper (try to get soder to stick to bare copper) capilary action is what causes the soder to "sweat" or flow between the joints of the pipe and fitting. Personaly I like the pre tinning fluxes. I end up with maybe 1 bad joint a year.