Laundry DWV pic review

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Chefwong

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Sorry for the low tech pic for review.
I'm not on par with some of these graphical ones others have laid out

On the left is the standpipe for the washing machine.
I use a Long Sweeping 90 for the Vent uptop or do I use a street 90 ?


Wye T where I go vertical for the sink drain.
Uptop, on the T that taps into the vent, do I use a regular T or Sanitary T

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EDIT.
I got the walls open.
There is a 4" Vent Runing Across the Ceiling but the T where I'm tapping into is 2".
The vertical for the vent for the laundry can be 2" even though the DWV/J Trap is 2" because I'm actually tapping into a 4" Vent right ?

laundry.jpg
 
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Kentd

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Blind leading the blind here...but you cannot put a sanitary tee on its back. Where the washer drain line and the sink drain line come together, that needs to be either a wye or a wye-tee combo.
 

hj

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You ONLY need the sink vent so all the other questions are moot. You seem to show a "combination Y-1/8" bend so that comment is also irrelevent. The vent for the washer and sink can be 1 1/2", but 2" will work, and has NOTHING to do with what or where you are tapping into.
 

Terry

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Or something like this.
hj doesn't like this, but this will pass in any state. If you're plumbing in Arizona, then maybe you can lose a few fittings. But talk to "your" inspector. Find out what your inspector is looking for.

washer_rough_b.jpg
 
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Chefwong

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No vent for laundry standpipe. Got it.

Okay. Here goes. Picked up some pieces just to lay it out for graphical purposes.

Thoughts on either Option A or Option B.
The sink will be right next to the washer for now so if I went with the double sani t route, it's a short run from the sani t fwiw.

vent0.jpg

vent1.jpg
 

hj

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The bottom one is the way to go. A "sanitary cross" is a POOR way to connect fixtures to a vertical pipe and in your case, you do NOT need that type of connection.
 

Chefwong

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Can I UPSIZE the laundry standpipe and Trap Only.

I've been reading past threads and it suggests that it should be 2".
The current runs are all 1 1/2. Even the laundry box drain box is 1 1/2.

I was thinking I was just use a 2" reducer and off the WYE where I plumb off the standpipe, I would make the trap and standpipe 2" only.
Is this okay ?
 

Gary Swart

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You can not reduce a drain. You'd better figure out how to increase the 1-1/2" portion to at least 2".
 

Chefwong

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In that case, I'll be doing a bit more plumbing across the board.

I might as well vent the standpipe as per the original pic.
Question - for the T that I will use off the vent to go into the sink 1st, do I use a regular T uptop or just a combo Wye
 

hj

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WHY are you suddenly talking about 1 1/2", when the original post said it was 2" and your photo shows 2" pipe and fittings? Where did you find a 1 1/2" laundry box? I have NEVER seen any which were NOT 2". You are starting to confuse the issue. As far as the vent connection, you can use ANY fitting you want to, including a "square turn" vent tee, although that will usually cost a bit more than a sanitary tee.
 

Chefwong

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The Box is a Guy Gray ?? model.

I'm looking at how I have the CI roughed in and where my shut off valve are, there will be a access panel.
Is it worth putting a cleanout- rodding tee on the horizontal run that is accessible via a very small 10x10 access panel ?
 
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Chefwong

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I ran a couple of really large loads in the washing machine and all is well.

Anything else I should be aware of on the standpipe before I button the walls back up ?
 
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