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Thread: Technetic 1050 PP draw question(s)

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member mgozz's Avatar
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    Default Technetic 1050 PP draw question(s)

    Hello! I'm happy I found this site and I hope you can help me out. I have a Technetic 1050 green sand potassium permanganate filtration system on my homes water system that was built in 1999. My problem is I'm not sure if it's drawing the pp or not. The level always seems to be the same throughout the regen cycle.

    I cleaned the injector (it was plugged) and the screen (it wasn't plugged but it was discolored). I have also checked the float in the pp tank and it seems like it is working correctly (it is similar to this: http://www.softenerparts.com/PhotoGa...uctCode=BP1002).

    A few questions I have... One is my air check system on the pump head is missing the ball. I'm not sure if this is correct or not as the float has a check ball in it for air. Is this correct? Or should I get a replacement air check system for the head (mine looks similar to this: http://www.softenerparts.com/Air_Che...p1032416.htm)?

    Two I have sat through the regen cycle and watched the pp tank and it doesn't look like the level changes at all. I figure at some point it should draw it out and refill it. Again it looks like the float is working properly. I removed it from the tank and checked for motion. It will move just enough to open at the bottom. Is this correct?

    Three what else can I check? The injector was completely blocked before I cleaned it and I'm wondering if something else is in the system that I can check for blockage.

    Thanks for reading and please give me some advise! My water has a bit of sulphur odor to it and I think it is because the pp isn't cleaning the green sand filter properly.

    Mike

  2. #2
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    You might look into a rebuild of the Autorol valve that you have, could be that the flapper or flappers needed for the brine or pot perm draw are not working right or that there is a plug in the valve.

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    Can you manually asvance the unit through a cycle? If you can, put unit into a draw cycle. Disconnet the tubing from the pp tank and check for a suction. If not suction, than the injector, flappers or both needs to be replaced.

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member mgozz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    You might look into a rebuild of the Autorol valve that you have, could be that the flapper or flappers needed for the brine or pot perm draw are not working right or that there is a plug in the valve.
    Alright.

    Quote Originally Posted by mialynette2003 View Post
    Can you manually asvance the unit through a cycle? If you can, put unit into a draw cycle. Disconnet the tubing from the pp tank and check for a suction. If not suction, than the injector, flappers or both needs to be replaced.
    I can manually advance it. I'll give that a try tonight. Does it matter how far into the draw section it is? Or as long as it's in the section it should have suction? How hard it is to replace the flappers?

    One more thing... is the air check on the mechanism supposed to have a ball in it or does it not matter because the float system has an air check ball in it?

    Thanks for the replies!
    Mike

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    As long as you have some type of air check it does not matter. Replacement of the flapper is very easy. It's just a matter of removing all the screws that hold them in place. Do you have a manual for the valve?

  6. #6
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    The injector was plugged and the water flow through the valve in that port may be blocked. A pipe cleaner works very well to clean the internal ports.

    Technetic is not made anymore so I don't know if you are going to be able to find new flapper valves. I was a Technetic dealer for some time back in the 90s and IIRC, the flappers were proprietary to the valve and different than other flappers but I may be wrong.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member mgozz's Avatar
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    Alright. So now I got it to draw properly I think. Weird this is after I cleaned everything I started a regen cycle and the pp tank was empty. Should it be full when the regen cycle starts? Anyway I filled it up manually and when it came to the draw cycle it drew from the tank no problem but during the refill cycle it didn't refill the pp tank (so it is now dry).

    Also can anyone tell me if this is in fact a Technetic? On softnerparts.com it seems like a lot of the generic parts (Autotrol parts) will work in it (like the air check and the injector caps, possible the flapper valves, etc.)

    Here she is:






    Mike

  8. #8
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Yes it is a Technetic but I don't recall that timer. It may be a filter version or the second generation of the valve. Some of the parts may be interchangeable with regular Autotrol valves but I think some were not.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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