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Thread: Newby to the pop off valve

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member DavidMSelf's Avatar
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    Default Newby to the pop off valve

    I know it is the pop off valve that is the problem but it looks like it is not just screwed in but saudered in and I have never had any experience with that sort of thing at all. I have remaid the insides of a guitar with new wires and all but this is new to me. What am I going to need to replace this thing other than the new part?

  2. #2
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Are you talking about a guitar, or a water heater? The temperature/pressure relief valve on a water heater is NEVER soldered. It is screwed into the side or top of the tank. What are your symptoms?? Often folks replace the TP valve, when it was not a fault but simply reacting to another problem, namely too-high temperature or pressure.

    Last edited by Terry; 10-03-2011 at 10:53 AM.

  3. #3

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    The solder you see is holding copper pipe coming off of the T&P. Solder will not stick to steel. You can unsolder the pipe from the T&P and replace it. Be sure that you shut down the tank properly and release all water pressure before doing anything.

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
    The solder you see is holding copper pipe coming off of the T&P. Solder will not stick to steel. You can unsolder the pipe from the T&P and replace it. Be sure that you shut down the tank properly and release all water pressure before doing anything.
    Cookie: you a plumber too? Got a tool belt? got crackspackle? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwCPhHezc-o

    Sounds like maybe David does not want to learn how to solder, but like jimbo said, the TP valves are threaded (all those I've seen) and attach to the tank with threaded fittings.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  5. #5
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    If I infer what your problem is, the T/P valve is leaking. This is a safety device to protect you water heater from exploding (literally) if either the temperature or the pressure gets too high. If it is operating properly, when one of those conditions occurs, the valve will open slightly and relieve the excess then close. The result would be a pool of water on the floor, but unless you were right there at the time the valve opened, there would be no other symptom. It is also possible the valve is corroded and will not close tightly. Then the water would continue to at least drip. The third possibility is that you have what we call a "closed system". This is when you have a check valve in the incoming water line that prevents the expansion of heated water from being absorbed by the main water supply. This check can be in a pressure regulator valve or in the water meter. Since water does not compress, when you water heater does its thing and heats the water, the slight expansion has no where to go and the internal pressure rises very quickly and quite dramatically. The cure for this is a thermal expansion tank that is installed between the check valve location and the water heater. You may have one of these that has failed and needs replacing. Of course, the T/P could be faulty and need replacing as others have noted, by turning off the water, releasing the pressure in the tank, then unscrewing the T/P and putting in a new one.

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