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Thread: ball valve problems

  1. #1

    Default ball valve problems

    Ball valve is leaking from body of ball valve. It is soldered on to copper pipe. (See pictures attached). I think I need to cut the valve out and replace. The problem is if I cut out the valve then I do not have long enough pipe to put in a new valve. The pipe after cutting put the valve is now too short to put in the same sized valve. I wanted to use a compression valve but that appears to require even more pipe then just a soldered on replacement would. Please help. If anyone knows any way to try and service that type of valve instead of replacing it please let me know. I just don't see how as it is soldered in place.

    Thanks so much.
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  2. #2
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    You can either:

    1)Cut the two 90's where they are sweated on to the valve body then sweat the cut 90's off, clean the pipe and sweat two nineties on to the valve then sweat to pipe stubs coming out of wall.

    2)Sweat the whole assembly off, make a hot tamale out of the the two 90's by alternating the torch and pulling the valve with a pair of channeys. Clean pipe and sweat new valve and 90's back on.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by kingsotall View Post
    You can either:

    1)Cut the two 90's where they are sweated on to the valve body then sweat the cut 90's off, clean the pipe and sweat two nineties on to the valve then sweat to pipe stubs coming out of wall.

    2)Sweat the whole assembly off, make a hot tamale out of the the two 90's by alternating the torch and pulling the valve with a pair of channeys. Clean pipe and sweat new valve and 90's back on.
    Thanks. About how long with the torch should it take to loosen the 90's sufficiently ? What type of torch do you recommend ? I am using a minibutane and it does not seem to be heating sufficiently.

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member WV Hillbilly's Avatar
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    Do you have the water turned off & drained ?

  5. #5
    Remodel Contractor GabeS's Avatar
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    Did you try tightening the nut? The ball valves have a nut on them that you can tighten.
    Gabe

    Don't follow my advice, I only know a thing or two about a thing or two.

  6. #6

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    YEs water is off and drained. The only nut I see is that pictured which only holds the handle itself on. The leak is coming from the body of the valve. You can see the leak to the left of the handle in the picture. I don't think there is any way to do maintenance on it. If it was unsoldered and off the pipe I could see possibly being able to open the valve parts.

  7. #7
    Remodel Contractor GabeS's Avatar
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    Oops. I was thinking of tile stops (ball valve type).

    I would buy an access panel and cut a square around the valve. Drop it below the floor or wall surface (can't tell) and resoder it. Then install access panel. There are many kinds of access panels and many colors to choose from. I don't like the way the valve look with everything finished around it. This could be a good opportunity to do it. If that's on the floor it's a good trip hazard.
    Last edited by GabeS; 01-20-2009 at 01:53 PM.
    Gabe

    Don't follow my advice, I only know a thing or two about a thing or two.

  8. #8
    Master Plumber nhmaster's Avatar
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    Mr happy sawzall will cut the valve off in either side of the ball itself making it much easier to get the water out.

  9. #9

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    Ok, still not fixed. I ended up cutting the valve out after trying to unsolder for too long. What I have left is one of the 90s completely off. Came off while unsoldering and the other side I have the 90 intact. Now the problem is the 1/2 inch 90 fittings I purchased to reinstall do not fit over the old pipe (It is 1/2 inch pipe no doubt). The old pipes look silver from the old solder and I think that is the problem but I can't remove the solder with sandpaper.

  10. #10
    DIY Senior Member TedL's Avatar
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    Yes, the old solder is making the OD of the pipe too large. Use a torch to heat it, and wipe most off with a rag. Then use some plumbers sandcloth to get to shiny bare copper.

    You need a propane or MAPP torch, not some oversized cigarette lighter. Real plumbers often use an acetylene tank. You need more BTUs faster.

    One suggestion: Use a three part ball valve, where you sweat the ends on and the center gets tightened onto the two fittings. The Apollo line at the big blue box is an example. Google "Apollo Pipe master" and check out the first result to see an example.

  11. #11
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    Mapp gas. Flux the stubs, heat 'em up, wipe with a rag. With both pieces to be soldered fluxed they will go together. If not, post a pic of what the pipes look like now.

  12. #12
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    I would hope he's still not working at it for nearly three years!

  13. #13
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default leak

    He COULD be if he tried to install a "3 piece valve".
    Last edited by hj; 10-04-2011 at 06:24 AM.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  14. #14
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    I would hope he's still not working at it for nearly three years!
    That's funny, but you never know!
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

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