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Thread: Wiring for Submersible Pump

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  1. #1
    DIY Member techinstructor's Avatar
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    Question Wiring for Submersible Pump

    We have a Myers Predator 2-wire, 1HP, 230 V 5 GPM pump installed in our well at our new home. Currently the pump is wired to a small pressure tank at the well with a cord on it so we can plug it in to our saw service and use it during construction. We are in the process of running the water and electrical lines from the well to the house and I have some questions about the wiring. We plan to have an electrician hook this up but we haven't contracted with someone yet. We need to go ahead and lay the wire in the ditch with the water line, so that it can be covered back up. It's a little over 100' from the well to the house so we want to get this right the first time.

    I need to know how long the new buried wire needs to be. Will it go from the well to the pressure tank switch or does it need to be long enough to go all the way over to the panel box? We plan to run 12 ga. UF ground, direct burial wire from the pump to the house. Is 12 ga large enough to handle the load with 115' (164' to the panel box) of run?

    We also want to be able to add a light in the small well house we plan to build. Do we need to run a second wire for this appliance, since it will be 110v as opposed to the 230v pump or can the electrician connect the light off of the same wire?

    Thank you in advance for your help.

  2. #2
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    #12 wire wire will be OK. I would run #12 uf w/ground from the well to the pressure switch. I would run #12 w/ground Submersable wire from the pump to the top of the well. I recommend using a Pside-Kick http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/products.html as it includes everything that you will need. The Pside-Kick will keep the pump from cycling and give you city like constant pressure.
    Porky Cutter, MGWC
    (Master Ground Water Consultant)

  3. #3
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    #12 wire wire will be OK.
    Franklins AIM manual incredibly says 14g copper is good for 250'. I think 12 was good to 500'

    But I dont see the well depth. Maybe its 400'+? Then its back to the book.

    12g UF with ground does not give him the neutral he needs [legally] to meet code for an outlet and a light. Nothing wrong with 240v lightbulbs, however, like the rest of the world.

    If the wells not deep do 14g 3 wire with ground.

    Around here, unless you are on the beach, everyone would use conduit for gophers and rocks. I have often used conduit with a sleeve, say 2" inside of 3" pipe, when crossing road and creeks and rock cuts.

    Be very careful of your electrician - he never read Franklins AIM manual, and he will try and tell you you need 10 gauge or heavier.

    http://www.franklin-electric.com/aim...l/page-11.aspx

    Your electrician will pull out his NEC book and say you can only go 180' with 10 gauge wire, because he does not understand Franklins motors design. Dont mention the light and plug, or he might be correct in the eyes of the code.

    I saw an idiot electrician wire up my 1/2hp Franklin with 6 gauge copper for about 300' run, because he was too pig headed to look at the chart I handed him. And the homeowner was afraid of him.
    Last edited by ballvalve; 09-21-2011 at 08:03 PM.

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    DIY Member techinstructor's Avatar
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    I have a document from Myers that has a chart for their pumps that is similar to the chart for Franklin pumps in your link. According to Myers with a 1 HP pump I can go 383 ft with 12 ga wire and 611' with 10 ga. I'm really glad I read Ballvalve's reply because I had failed to add in the distance from the ground to the pump when calculating the length of the wire. I now know that we need to use 10 ga; the total distance from the panel box to the pump will be about 564' so I would have been way over the limit for 12 ga.

    Ballvalve, thanks for the information about the wiring for the light. We'll run a separate UF ground wire for that. At least that can be 14 ga (I guess?).

    And Porky, thanks for the tip about the P-side kick. I'm concerned about the pump cycling as I know that is what wears them out. I'm also concerned about the low yield of my well (2 GPM). I've been told that the pump (1 HP) is too large for that yield; I was not consulted by the contractor who put the pump in. I do have a low pressure cut-off switch for my pressure tank in hopes that I can avoid ever running the pump dry.

  5. #5
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    You might want to compare the price of running the section from the house to the well with PVC conduit and individual THHN/THWN wires.

    If it needs to be repaired/replaced in the future you can just pull new wires through the conduit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    .... individual THHN/THWN wires.
    translate please?

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