Whirlpool Flame Lock water heaters, reviews, troubleshooting, repair and support.

**Redwood** · 02-26-2008, 08:47 PM

The best course of action it to shut off the gas valve. Shut off the water supply. Remove the smoke pipe. Drain the water heater cut the 2 water pipes. Undo the gas supply. Move it aside for a new Rheem or, Bradford-White!

**master plumber mark** · 02-27-2008, 04:00 AM

Originally Posted by ActionDeath

My situation:

My question is, has anyone attempted to modify the flametrap screen with slightly larger openings rather than removing the glass for more air flow? Is there a way to remove the screen completely, from underneath, for regular thorough cleaning?

Once the figure out how to bypass that high limit switch, then
its just a matter of time before someone burns down their house....

You really cant do anything to that bi-metal heat screen underneath that heater,
I though of getting a sharp punch and trying to blow some holes through it,
but you have to take the heater out to do this...
the screen point welded into place...

you are not supppoed to have to tamper with them in the first place
but the only thing that seems to work is letting in ari through the front cover...

http://www.weilhammerplumbing.com/galleryiii/

Do like REDWOOD stated and simply change the heater

**Cass** · 02-27-2008, 04:07 AM

Mark...if you punch holes in it it will allow flammable vapors to ignite and you will be liable for it.

**master plumber mark** · 02-27-2008, 04:12 AM

Originally Posted by Cass

Mark...if you punch holes in it it will allow flammable vapors to ignite and you will be liable for it.

Yes you are right, the same thing with takeing off the front cover too..

the same thing with by-passing the hi-limit thermal fuse.....

people are doing this all over the country..

basically makeing the heater back into a pre2003 unit.....illegally..........

Honestly the Government really ought to pull that design of heater off the market..

their is no way that they have passed the UL standaards or
ANTSI rateings

Whirlpool has had to bribe someone to keep this on the market and
it is not fari to all the other competitors ou there that
have good designs like rheem and White

..http://www.weilhammerplumbing.com/galleryiii/

**ActionDeath** · 02-27-2008, 04:19 AM

Can't, I'm broke. My Wife and I are both unemployed right now. Does Lowes only sell WP water heaters? I mean, if I try to return it for a store credit (no receipt), do I HAVE to get another WP? If so, I'd rather just try to make this one work. Even if they do allow the exchange, I'll have to figure out a way to pay for installation.

I just thought the safest way to mod. one of these would be to mod. the poorly designed flame trap in a way that would allow more air into the unit. Thought I'd see if anyone had tried that. Believe me, I'd love to just get a new one, and leave the old one at the front door of Lowes, but that just isn't going to work for me right now.

**Redwood** · 02-27-2008, 04:50 AM

Have ya got CO detectors with fresh batteries?

**ActionDeath** · 02-27-2008, 05:08 AM

Of course!

**ActionDeath** · 02-27-2008, 05:25 AM

I'm not any kind of expert, but with the a gas furnace within 10 feet of the water heater, a furnace with no POS flamelock safety guard air-tight combustion chamber system, if flamable vapors were present, wouldn't the furnace ignite them? I mean, if that is the sole purpose of this crap, and my furnace is not equipped with such features, couldn't I just feed it more air and keep all of my flamable vapors out in the garage?

**Cass** · 02-27-2008, 05:56 AM

A water heaters combustion chamber is low to the floor where most flammable vapors will fall to and be drawn in to it, creating a fire.

Most furnace combustion chambers are higher up.

Water heaters in a garage are required to be up off the floor for this reason.

**ActionDeath** · 02-27-2008, 02:40 PM

Gotcha. That makes sense, it just seems to me that anyone with any sense would just keep anything flamable far away from any pilot flames. I guess there's an idiot born every minute.

Well, I spoke with WP again today... Had a nice young lady in the Philippines tell me she would send me another gas valve, I asked for a manager... A gentleman in India told me that they will not give me a new water heater unless mine is not repairable and that mine was definitely repairable. He transferred me to an American who walked me through a simple adjustment of the TC adapter, still wouldn't light. He asked me to bypass the thermal switch and it still wouldn't light. He told me to replace the TC and if that didn't work, I would get a new unit. I imagine another Whirlpool, but they're making good on the warranty and thats all I want. Well, that and hot water.

Funny though, I tried once more after I got off the phone with him and it lit just fine. Still, with the switch bypassed. Should I even waste the money on yet ANOTHER TC? I don't think there is anything wrong with it. I don't have a multimeter to test it, but it's been through several cycles with the switch bypassed and the pilot is still going strong.

**Redwood** · 02-27-2008, 07:13 PM

Don't worry about it. It will fail when you need it most!

**Dunbar Plumbing** · 02-27-2008, 08:02 PM

I talked my future customer out of this brand yesterday,

I save people more money than GEICO.

**JohnINLafayette** · 03-04-2008, 09:41 AM

Hi all,

I have the same model water heater that the original poster has and the pilot has gone out. I am currently working with Whirlpool to get them to send me out one of the upgrade manifold kits, however after talking with the tech service person I am not confident that they are wanting to do so.

Can anyone suggest a source for a Rheem or Bradford White dealer in the Lafayette IN area? Man, I hate the idea of dropping a ton of money on a new water heater when I just did so two years ago.

Thanks

John

MG · 03-04-2008, 10:25 AM

If you call the 1-800 # press 2 so you talk with a tech in Johnson City, TN. The techs know what they are doing - you might want to press the issue and get them to approve a new gas valve as well.

Pressing 1 sends you to India.

'nuff said.

**JohnINLafayette** · 03-04-2008, 10:45 AM

Thanks MG, #2 is what I pressed. I did not have the serial number with me when i called and only the model #. Maybe I just got hold of someone in a sour mood. The entire conversation was very abrupt and rude as if I was putting them out by calling. They tried to get me to pay 150 dollars for the new manifold.

Is there a special phrase or buzzword I should use that will trigger some sort of "I would like to help this guy out" reaction?