Best tool to drill 3-5/8 hole in wood

Users who are viewing this thread

Takelargebites

New Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Louisiana
What is the best type of drill bit for drilling holes in wood framing for 3" PVC ? Are the self feed bits best? I see a 3-5/8 by Milwaukee for about $100.
 

Takelargebites

New Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Louisiana
Is 3-5/8 the best size to drill for 3" PVC? It sure seems like it will be a tight fit since the pipe is 3-1/2 OD.

I was planning on boring the following hole sizes:

1-1/2" PVC - 2-1/8" hole
2" PVC - 2-9/16" hole
3" PVC - 3-5/8 hole (since I haven't found a 3-3/4" bit)
 
Last edited:

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,503
Reaction score
577
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
The close tolerance should not be a problem if you stay perpendicular to the wood. A good right-angle drill, while expensive is the way to go.
wpid-dcc36ab6ec400fcefbd1afb105bca9df.gif
 

Ballvalve

General Engineering Contractor
Messages
3,581
Reaction score
45
Points
48
Location
northfork, california
If its your first big hole with a self feed, better be ready for an injury. Butt the drill to a board in the pull direction or have deep regrets later.

The Weenies use holes saws, but they cant get hurt.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I use a Timberwolf, it's has a clutch for the low speed. It also has a nice long handle that I can brace with. But Ballvalve is right, for someone that hasn't been taught, it's asking for trouble. And when hj says he uses planetor bits that size, that's really asking for it. hj can do it, but I would never recommend it to anyone that hasn't been plumbing for a while. It takes strength, which is something you can't teach, and it's takes knowledge, which is gained by experience.
 

Dlarrivee

New Member
Messages
1,150
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Canada
Unless you plan to do house after house w/ these bits, why not just use normal hole saws? The self-feed bits are very expensive.

It takes longer, but is less dangerous, and will do the job.
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,503
Reaction score
577
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
It takes longer, but is less dangerous, and will do the job.
I could say the same for the old brace and adjustable bit that I grew up with. Come to think of it, I'm sure the brace and bit was faster, except in tight spaces where you had to ratchet it.
 

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
I could say the same for the old brace and adjustable bit that I grew up with. Come to think of it, I'm sure the brace and bit was faster, except in tight spaces where you had to ratchet it.
I still have 2 of those ratchet bit braces and a whole lot of auger bits
 

Ballvalve

General Engineering Contractor
Messages
3,581
Reaction score
45
Points
48
Location
northfork, california
I ground off the hex ends of gramps old auger bits and they work fine in most drills up to about 1"

He also left me with a 3 speed hand drill, with quick change gears, of the greatest beauty and construction. It went away with one of my workers, and now all of the classic tools are locked up. Much easier than lugging a generator to a gate job.

http://www.angels.galootcentral.com/chuckzitur/geared_drills.htm

As a afterthought, I would try a and design out ANY 4" holes in framing lumber. I built many a house and never drilled a hole for a 3" pipe. Also, not many timbers will allow such a huge hole structurally, code wise.
 
Last edited:

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
I ground off the hex ends of gramps old auger bits and they work fine in most drills up to about 1"

He also left me with a 3 speed hand drill, with quick change gears, of the greatest beauty and construction. It went away with one of my workers, and now all of the classic tools are locked up. Much easier than lugging a generator to a gate job.

http://www.angels.galootcentral.com/chuckzitur/geared_drills.htm

As a afterthought, I would try a and design out ANY 4" holes in framing lumber. I built many a house and never drilled a hole for a 3" pipe. Also, not many timbers will allow such a huge hole structurally, code wise.

The auger bits I have are all tapered square ends fro the brace's chuck. Some of them, I also have ground down to use in a power drill. I've even used one of those bits occasionally as a faucet seat removal wrench because of its shape.:eek:
 

Ballvalve

General Engineering Contractor
Messages
3,581
Reaction score
45
Points
48
Location
northfork, california
I manage to keep most toilets indoors. Since I design my homes, I design out the stupidity of the average designer. How many of you look at plans and want to choke the designer?

Plywood and walls respond well to any saw or hole saw. A carving blade on a tiny Stihl saw is the magic do all tool. You'll never pick up a sawz-all again except to cut a nail or a steel roof... No cord needed. Never leave home without one.

I must admit I used a hated sawzall to cut up a 100 pound lamb this weekend. A nail embedded wood blade makes great loin chops.

My latest house is all trusses, walls and roof combined. Some 1" holes for wire in interior walls only. Not a single hole otherwise.

Dont forget that around here, its almost all slab on grade, so your 3" is out of sight. If you dont scatter toilets around the 2 story house like a Microsoft managers 40 valley roof McMansion, then its easy to run your turds straight out an easy run. And they will thank you for it.
 
Last edited:

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
Sawzall works wonders too on the double top plate and/or any structural beam that gets in the way.

One of those type plumbers did this 41 years ago when my house was built. Sole plate same thing. 3 inch copper in a 2x4 wall.
House still in one piece after several hurricanes. Not much original insulation back then either, but back then, oil was REALLY Cheap!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9850.jpg
    IMG_9850.jpg
    46.5 KB · Views: 997
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks