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Thread: Add Sink Beside Washer and Move Supply Valves

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member monkeystomach's Avatar
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    Default Add Sink Beside Washer and Move Supply Valves

    Hello,

    I currently have a front load washer and a front load dryer in my utility room connected to a “classic” washing machine water supply/drain box. This box was intended for a top load machine and is about 40” above the floor.
    I would like to add a counter over the washer and dryer to make a folding/laundry area for the wife. While doing this it would be nice to add a sink in this room. I do not want the connection box to be visible, yet I want easy access to the valves.

    So my thought is that I can remove the box, and cut the pipes down below where the sink would go. I would then attach valves under the sink that would control both the faucet and washer. Below are pics of what I am trying to accomplish.
    Is there such a valve that is readily available in the market already, which has the connection for both the faucet and the washer? Or would it be easier to make one (if so, how would I do it)?

    I know I will also have to come back and ask for advice on the drain, but I will just have to come back after I rip the drywall down.






    Thanks,

    Ed

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    There are some codes that dictate the height of a washer standpipe. You'd have to check those to see if your proposed lowering would be acceptable. A front loader's peak water level is lower than a more traditional top loader, but the code is written to accommodate either.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    DIY Member wallskev's Avatar
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    My wife had the same complaints when we switched. I built a box out of Plastic Sheeting (1/4" thick, and attached it to the Valve/drain box using magnets so she could get it off to turn valves off when we travel. I also put a sink with a cabinet front next to them attached to the Counter top.

    She just Loved it and for me no major plumbing issues of changing the box location.

    Sketch I made for her before building is attached.

    Name:  Washer.jpg
Views: 409
Size:  43.8 KB
    Kevin

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member jastori's Avatar
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    Changing the supplies as you have proposed should be fine. As Jim mentioned, you need to be careful about the height of the drain standpipe if you are trying to relocate the washer drain.

    Regarding the supply valves, I don't think you will find a single valve device with connections for both washer and sink. However, you can easily combine a coulple of fittings & valves to supply both. If you have copper supplies, and are not comfortable with soldering, you could join the fittings with threaded (IPS) or compressions connections.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member monkeystomach's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I checked my local code and cannot find anything about the height of the standpipe. The instructions for the washer say it needs to be 18" high, I will probably do about 30". Once I get the drywall down I'll take some pics and post for more advice.


    Thanks,

    Ed

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member monkeystomach's Avatar
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    So this is my current drain situation. It is 2" with a 1.5" vent on the right. Since I am going with a front loader and I want all of the connections to be under the sink which will be all the way to the left, how can I do that with the drain?

    Remove the in-wall p-trap and connect them to the same drain under the sink with two individual p-traps?

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member monkeystomach's Avatar
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    What if I remove the in-wall p-trap and then plumb everything like a regular sink setup.

    Then i would do something like this...


  8. #8
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Don't think that would pass code or work really well. A WM pumps water quite fast would likely backup into the sink. Depending on the height, it might siphon the WM, there's a reason for the height requirement.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  9. #9
    Nuclear Engineer nukeman's Avatar
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    See Section 406.3 and 802.4.

    https://www2.iccsafe.org/states/Virg..._Frameset.html

    Basically, it needs to be 2" diameter and have a height of 18" to 42" above the trap weir for the washer standpipe.

    I think it might be tricky to put the sink on the left without moving the stack or adding another stack. The problem is the the sink connection would need to cross the standpipe in the current setup. Any chance on moving the washer/dryer to the left and put the sink on the right (other side of stack)?

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member monkeystomach's Avatar
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    would adding what is in red in this crude drawing work?


  11. #11
    Consultant cwhyu2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeystomach View Post
    would adding what is in red in this crude drawing work?

    That looks like it would be okay.

  12. #12
    DIY Junior Member monkeystomach's Avatar
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    Actually... do I even need to add a new vent pipe to the current vent? Or can I just add the new drain? Does that depend on the distance the new drain will be from the current stack?


    Thanks,

    Ed

  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeystomach View Post
    Actually... do I even need to add a new vent pipe to the current vent? Or can I just add the new drain? Does that depend on the distance the new drain will be from the current stack?


    Thanks,

    Ed
    but where is the trap for the new drain?
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  14. #14
    Consultant cwhyu2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeystomach View Post
    Actually... do I even need to add a new vent pipe to the current vent? Or can I just add the new drain? Does that depend on the distance the new drain will be from the current stack?


    Thanks,

    Ed
    Yes you need the vent,and show a trap in you drawings.If you do not vent the sink then when W/M discharges
    it will suck the sink trap dry.

  15. #15
    DIY Junior Member monkeystomach's Avatar
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    Here is the drawing with the sink and trap... the trap for the W/M standpipe will be inside the wall and the trap for the sink will be outside the wall under the sink...


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