Remote pressure tank or pump or both?

**dlatzko** · 09-01-2011, 04:32 AM

I have a nicely functioning well tank and submersible pump system at my home. (80 gallon well-rite, 1 hp pump) I have recently built a garage type building about 500 away with potential living quarters on the second floor. The garage is about 50 feet higher in elevation from the house and current well setup.

As a test, I pulled a long garden hose up there and the pressure is very low. I am planning on pulling a permanent 1' underground water line to that location. What do you recommend for a good pressure at the garage and a good supply of water there? A second pressure tank with some kind of pump? Or just a pressure boooster pump? Will a pump of some kind in the water line after my existing pressure tank cause some kind of problem at my house with the existing tank?

Any comment or suggestions are welcome. I am in the planning phase.

**LLigetfa** · 09-01-2011, 05:10 AM

There are several brands and models of booster pumps but it seems the people on this forum don't care for them. If you raised the pressure in the house by 25 PSI it would make up for the 50 foot rise. What is the PSI set to now? What is the height of the water table?

**dlatzko** · 09-01-2011, 05:47 AM

I am using a 30/50 pressure switch which works OK for the house. I would estimate that I encounter water about 40-50 feet down the well. There is about 80 feet of wire in the well, so I'm estimating that the pump is about 80' down.

**LLigetfa** · 09-01-2011, 06:17 AM

So, 50 down and 50 up is 100 feet of total head. You only mentioned the HP, not the GPM of the pump, so it's hard to calculate the pump curve for higher PSI.

80 PSI is considered the max before a PRV should be used on city water, so if your pump could produce 25 more PSI, you would have good city-like pressure at the house and the garage would have what you currently have at the house. If you added a Cycle Stop Valve, you could have more constant pressure and not suffer as many 20 PSI swings.

**valveman** · 09-01-2011, 08:06 AM

Turn the pressure switch up to 60/80. If that is too much pressure for the house, you can add a pressure reducing valve at the house. No need to boost the pressure if the first pump will turn up like I think it will. Adding a CSV would help because with more places using water the pump will cycle more often. And raising the pressure to 60/80 effectively reduces the amount your pressure tank can hold. So you either need an additional tank, which only slows down the cycling, or a CSV which stops the cycling.

**dlatzko** · 09-01-2011, 05:05 PM

It is sounding like all of you prefer me to tinker with the main pressure than for me to try the booster pump as a first solution.

Just out of curiosity, what effect does a pressure booster have if it is added in the remote location? Does it have any effect on the flow of water at the main house as it cycles on/off?

**dlatzko** · 09-01-2011, 05:19 PM

I just found the material from my pump. It was installed in August 2002. It is a Jacuzzi Brand. The installer wrote the following things on the receipt: Mod T5S4108PV-S2 10 gal 20v 2 wire pump . Pump setting 50/75 ft/min. Does give any more information for you all? I paid 467.50 for the pump, 9.67 for the 1 wire coupling set and $190.40 for labor. Still working fine.

**valveman** · 09-02-2011, 06:04 AM

A 10 GPM, 1 HP pumping set at 80' can still pump 10 GPM at 100 PSI. You have plenty of pump, you just need to turn up the pressure to whatever you want. The only reason to use a booster is if the primary pump won't do the job. Two pump systems are more expense and trouble than a single pump system. And yes when a booster comes on, everything that is not getting water from the booster can be starved for flow and pressure.

In your case the well pump will give you as much pressure as you need. You just need to get a new pressure switch that can be turned up to 60/80 or 80/100. Also increasing the operating pressure reduces the amount of water your pressure tank can deliver. So you either need a larger tank or a CSV to reduce the number of cycles. Then any place along the line that has too much pressure can be fitted with a pressure reducing valve, which is inexpensize and simple.

**LLigetfa** · 09-02-2011, 07:37 AM

Originally Posted by valveman

A 10 GPM, 1 HP pumping set at 80' can still pump 10 GPM at 100 PSI. You have plenty of pump...

The pump is 50 feet down and the garage is 50 feet up for a total of 100 feet. I have not looked at the pump curve for that model to say whether 20 feet will make much difference but would think 60/80 with a CSV would be quite acceptable and not require a PRV for the house.