Ejector Tie-In

Hello again - really appreciate the expertise here.
Hope this isn't too obtuse a question - revisiting the new basement bathroom, requiring ejector, as main drain exits house at level about an inch above the basement floor.
I'm not totally clear on the restrictions as to how the ejector effluent ties into the main drain.
In the picture, present condition is on the left - main stack, with tie-ins for the main and second floor bath, and kitchen and laundry, at the level just below main floor joists.

I need to get bathroom ejector attached to main drain somehow - and I've outlined three scenarios that I've thought of. What I'm not sure about is if there is any relationship between where the other fixtures enter the drain and where the ejector may connect. Obviously 'Plan C' is the most difficult to execute.

I'm grateful for any insights you guys can offer.

Plan B looks good to me.Plan A NO.

I've been thinking that 'Plan B' would be easiest to execute; what's the precise reason for the "NO" on Plan A?

B is the easiest solution.

Thanks -
Enlightening as always!

You would be connecting to your main clean out and that is not allowed by any code.Stick with plan B.

quote; You would be connecting to your main clean out and that is not allowed by any code

He would NOT be connecting TO the main cleanout, he would be RELOCATING the cleanout which is completely "legal". It would be "illegal" if he removed the plug and used a bushing to connect the pump to the drain system, but that is NOT what he has drawn. Either way is perfectly acceptable. The "best" one would depend on the type of pipe, since the degree of diffuculty would change depending on whether it was cast iron or plastic.

The drawing is obviously simplified...

I wouldn't consider C an option at all, A or B will both work and depend upon other conditions not shown in this drawing.

You are right HJ but B is the much gooder option,LOL

If it is cast iron, I can remove the cleanout, insert a Combo, and replace the cleanout about as fast as cutting in a "Y" in the riser. Plastic, the "C" is the easier. The drawing was so large, I did not see #C, but it has absolutely no redeeming features and will reduce the pump's capacity.

Thanks for all the input, everybody. (This forum, and 'heatinghelp.com' have been invaluable for a DIYer like myself.)

Anyway, the combo-wye that transits the basement wall is cast iron. The stack pipe from this fitting upward is PVC.

When I opened up the basement walls a few weeks ago to start this remodel, there was an existing toilet/lav on an 8" high platform next to the main stack (unknown how long ago it was installed), and they drained into the existing CI combo-wye via what is now the cleanout - highly illegal I think.
There were all sorts of mickey-mouse steel and CI pipes associated with those fixtures - now all gone, removed by a licensed plumber. He replaced all that with a PVC coupling and a plug on the horizontal opening of the combo-wye, as depicted above. The main stack was also CI for about 5 feet from the remaining CI fitting upward to where it met ABS DWV system that had been installed for the upstairs fixtures during a remodel we did about 10 years ago. Presently the fixture that transits the wall near the floor is the only CI remaining.

I was leaning toward plan 'A' or 'B', but was worried about entering the DWV stack below the rims of the fixtures above, hence plan 'C' - which seem universally panned, and makes the job MUCH easier.

without being too obtuse - where will the vent tie in?

Local code in NJ, USA required a 2" vent for the ejector....my run is about 35 feet long, but ties into the main
vent about 2' from the 3" roof vent.

C actually looks easy - just use banded couplers rather than regular pvc - ???

Hey Pros, can a 2" saddle be used on the PVC ? how easy would that be!

Why would you use banded connections if you had plastic pipe to work with?

Saddle tees are not a good idea.

dlarrivee said:

Why would you use banded connections if you had plastic pipe to work with?

Saddle tees are not a good idea.

Click to expand...

my assumption was that there wouldn't be a way to get a solid fitting into place since the pipe cannot be
lifted or lowered the required 3" for the fitting, since the the horizontal run is CI...

probably shouldn't assume tho.

"Saddles" are NOT permitted for drainage under any code that I know of.

The vent was not shown for clarity/simplicity.
My understanding is that ejectors require their own dedicated vent - so the 2" vent is going up a separate route to the roof, 2 stories above. I puzzled over that for awhile, also over tying in the vents for the WC, lav, shower and laundry as well that are going in down there.

Part of this project is also replacing the heating plant, and we're changing over from forced air to hydronic - a mix of joist space tubes and radiators. So, I now have some air ducts that run from the basement to the second floor - I'm going to use them for conduits for the vent pipes (as well as the pex lines to supply the 2nd floor radiators)
I'm going to have to cut into the wall a bit on the second floor, where the duct ends, to get the vents and tubing up to the attic space, but not too bad.