How to install blocking

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North Jersey

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How do you typically install blocking in a stud bay when you have vertical drains and the like in that stud bay? I've used little angle brackets before, but I'm wondering if you folks know of an easier way to secure the blocking? Specifically, I'm putting in a pedestal sink that requires some sort of blocking for the lavatory basin and for the the drop ear elbows for the supply lines, but the drain and the vent are centered in the base plate, so I can't install blocking all the way across.
 
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BobL43

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How do you typically install blocking in a stud bay when you have vertical drains and the like in that stud bay? I've used little angle brackets before, but I'm wondering if you folks know of an easier way to secure the blocking? Specifically, I'm putting in a pedestal sink that requires some sort of blocking for the lavatory basin and for the the drop ear elbows for the supply lines, but the drain and the vent are centered in the base plate, so I can't install blocking all the way across.

When I did the roughing for my pedesatal sink, I cut out a notch in the 2 2x4's to receive a 6 inch wide piece of 3/4 plywood which made it flush with the surface of the studs and screwed the plywood to the studs. For the drop ear elbows, I attached a piece of plywood to the rear of the stud bay. there was still enough room for the 1 1/2 inch PVC drain and vent to run vertically between the 2 pieces of plywood.

I like the nail gun answer too:D.
 

North Jersey

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Thanks for the input, everybody. How did you attach the plywood to the back of the stud bay? I guess I can always use the angle brackets.
 

BobL43

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Thanks for the input, everybody. How did you attach the plywood to the back of the stud bay? I guess I can always use the angle brackets.

use screws and "toe-screw" it into the studs at an angle unless you want to nail it through the wall and have the nails stick into the next room or outside! :eek: This does not take great carpentry skills.
 

North Jersey

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Yeah, I seem to split the plywood a lot when I try to screw it. I guess I'll have to continue using brackets when I need to recess blocking. I don't have the best framing and carpentry skills.

I think you're referring to my BFR in 500 S&W Magnum. The 500 mag is much bigger than a 45 LC. I have some cartridges with 700 gr. bullets loaded for that rascal. I think Ian would appreciate this pistol. Here's a lion hunt clip with a 500 S&W: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWPaIrEsGD0 People also hunt elephants and bison with the 500.
 
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Dlarrivee

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The guy who owned my place before I bought it liked to use those little L brackets too...

I'm not sure why he didn't just put 1 screw through what he was attaching into what he was attaching it to, instead he used 2 screws 1 bracket and nothing he did felt sturdy.
 

BobL43

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Yeah, I seem to split the plywood a lot when I try to screw it. I guess I'll have to continue using brackets when I need to recess blocking. I don't have the best framing and carpentry skills.

I think you're referring to my BFR in 500 S&W Magnum. The 500 mag is much bigger than a 45 LC. I have some cartridges with 700 gr. bullets loaded for that rascal. I think Ian would appreciate this pistol. Here's a lion hunt clip with a 500 S&W: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWPaIrEsGD0 People also hunt elephants and bison with the 500.

You can always use a good construction adhesive to hold the plywood to the studs and whatever covering is in the back of the bay, plus a few small screws to keep it in place while the glue is setting up
 

hj

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I think it would be pretty difficult to "split" plywood doing ANYTHING with it. You fasten the backing by toenailing it to the studs. I have NEVER used "brackets" to attach any backing.
 
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