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Thread: Replacing water heater

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member cag9228's Avatar
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    Default Replacing water heater

    All,

    I am replacing a water heater that developed a slight leak at the cold inlet. At first I thought it was the nipple, but after disassembling and reassembling the connections (used Rectorseal #5 on the threaded connections) I realized it was a leak on a weld.

    So when installing the new one, do they come with the T&P already installed? If so, do I need to remove it, dope it, and screw it back in? Ditto with the nipples. And should I be worried about over tightening threaded connections?


    Regards,

    Andy

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Most new water heaters that I'm installing have the T&P and the nipples preinstalled.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member cag9228's Avatar
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    Ah ok. So then I just leave them alone.

    I'll attach the dielectric unions to the nipples and run copper from the unions up. That's pretty easy.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Depending on the one you buy, the nipples may already BE a dielectric union...no reason to add another one. Also, depending on where you live, some places REQUIRE the connection to be made with a flexible supply, and some PROHIBIT it. It's much easier to screw the flexible copper supply pipe in rather than try to align it with hard copper, but either can work, depending on what your inspector wants.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member cag9228's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Depending on the one you buy, the nipples may already BE a dielectric union...no reason to add another one. Also, depending on where you live, some places REQUIRE the connection to be made with a flexible supply, and some PROHIBIT it. It's much easier to screw the flexible copper supply pipe in rather than try to align it with hard copper, but either can work, depending on what your inspector wants.
    Yeah the flexible connectors are out as an option due to code. Aligning the copper isn't that big of a deal.

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