Recommendations on lav faucets that don't use braided supply lines?

Hey everyone,

I had purchased a Grohe faucet for the lav that will be going in my new bathroom. The basin is a wall-mounted small design (19 wide x 15 deep) and will have the plumbing exposed. There is a single hole for the faucet and I'm trying to get the plumbing up as high under the lav as possible in case I want to add a shroud to it. I would prefer to keep it exposed, though.

Here's my problem now. I can't seem to find any single hole, single lever faucet (without drain) that allows for hard supply lines to be attached. The Grohe I bought comes with braided lines and I know I can't swap those out for hard ones. They won't look good in my situation. Can anyone recommend a line of faucets, or even specific types of faucets that would allow for hard lines to be attached? I like sleek, simple, modern-looking chrome.

Thanks,
Kim

Cleveland Faucet Group (http://www.cfgonline.com/) is one line that is mostly staying with male 1/2" ips inlet fittings. Of course, you won't find foo-foo styling there. To comply with the lead laws, most of the mainstream incl. kohler, moen, pp, delta, are using flex lines especially on their single handle faucets/

jimbo said:

Cleveland Faucet Group (http://www.cfgonline.com/) is one line that is mostly staying with male 1/2" ips inlet fittings. Of course, you won't find foo-foo styling there. To comply with the lead laws, most of the mainstream incl. kohler, moen, pp, delta, are using flex lines especially on their single handle faucets/

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Thanks Jimbo,

I'll have a look at the link you've provided. So, it's because of lead laws. I would have never guessed. I'm not even sure where lead would be involved. I have 3/8 going out the top of the angle stops I bought. I guess some faucets come in 3/8 as well as 1/2 inch? I'm sure I could get 1/2 x 1/2 angle stops if I needed to.

If anyone else has any other ideas, I'm all ears. I really do like the "European" looking (foo-foo) faucets.

Kim

1. The fitting on 'old school' faucets is 1/2 IPS. Most common angle stop is 3/8. With flex lines that is fine. If you want to hard pipe, you would stil use 3/8 chrome plated copper from the stop. There is a nut and gasket that seals that into the 1/2 at the faucet. BUT, you need a beading tool to put a bead on the od od the pipe so it doesn't blow out.

2. Common yellow brass has lead in it. That is the problem. There is a lead free brass alloy available. It is more expensive and also more costly to machine, which is why some are replacing all brass parts with plastic. Some imports can afford to use the 'new brass', and commercial lines like Chicago and T&S also can absorb the cost. Everything in between...lots of plastic.

quote; Some imports can afford to use the 'new brass', and commercial lines like Chicago and T&S also can absorb the cost.

ANd you also believe in the Easter Bunny and the Tooth Fairy. They do NOT, and CAN NOT, absorb the cost, unless they were overpriced to begin with.

hj said:

quote; Some imports can afford to use the 'new brass', and commercial lines like Chicago and T&S also can absorb the cost.

ANd you also believe in the Easter Bunny and the Tooth Fairy. They do NOT, and CAN NOT, absorb the cost, unless they were overpriced to begin with.

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The point is...there is wiggle room on a $150 faucet, where a $35 does not.

Thanks for the faucet lesson, guys. I didn't know brass had lead in it and I didn't know I'd need a beading tool if I were to need to make that kind of connection. About the new brass -- I don't mind paying the bucks for a good faucet that will last a long time. I'm thinking between $150 and $350 would be fine, so, maybe I'll check out Chicago and T&S? I can't even remember what I paid for the Grohe. I think it was about $200ish. I have someone I could tap for the beading tool and to actually do it for me. He's just not available all the time.

My other option, because I'm doing a very tight plumbing configuration (trap and supplies very close to each other) so that they're all neatly tucked under the sink, is maybe just curling the flex lines around once before attaching them to the angle stop. That mightl hide them or I might just need a trim board around the sink. The last resort for me would be the shroud I can order for the it but it costs as much as the sink itself and I'd rather avoid that.