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Thread: LED Lamp for Can light housings

  1. #46
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Man, another R30 CFL bulb in my kitchen ceiling just failed. Worst part of it is that when I tried to unscrew it, as as in the past, the large glass "envelope in the front unscrews from the base of the spiral CFL bulb itself, and then I can't reach in behind it to grab the base of the bulb. I have to pull the eyeball trim down, unclip the bulb socket and feed it out of the eyeball swivel assembly enough to grab the bulb base. That'll be tomorrow.

    I don't know how long the bulb's been up there. I write the instaaltion date on each bulb just prior to installing it. Maybe this one made it for one year, I hope. When I take it down, I'm gonna post a picture of it here to see if anyone else is having the problem with the glass seperating like I am.

    Do I need to order some extra Real Light Bulbs for You ?

    I have been getting 5 years out if them. Real Time...
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  2. #47
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    Do I need to order some extra Real Light Bulbs for You ?

    I have been getting 5 years out if them. Real Time...
    Don, I actually have a bunch of real lightbulbs; lots are brand new in the boxes and many are used that I tried to give away to Habitat Re_Store, but they want only new ones, not like new ones. I donate a LOT of stuff to them, but when it comes to light bulbs, that they are fussy with. Our electric rates here on Long Island, NY are probably the highest in the country; its insane with taxes, it works out to about 27 cents a KWHour or more as I remember
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  3. #48
    DIY Senior Member TJanak's Avatar
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    Bob you have me worried. I am planning on putting in quite a few 6" cans in the kitchen and living areas and was going to use R30 cfl's. I have R30 incandescents in the hallway but they hardly ever get used. They would give off too much heat for me to use them all of the time in the kitchen, etc.
    Travis

    When I need a precise measurement of something I often use the highly technical method of eyeballing it.

  4. #49
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJanak View Post
    Bob you have me worried. I am planning on putting in quite a few 6" cans in the kitchen and living areas and was going to use R30 cfl's. I have R30 incandescents in the hallway but they hardly ever get used. They would give off too much heat for me to use them all of the time in the kitchen, etc.
    Hi Travis, I had R30 Incandescants in my kitchen ceiling since a renovation in 1987. I don't seem to remember being concerned over the heat from the 6 can fixtures they are/were in. Only reason I went over to CFL bulbs about 10 years, ago or whenever they started coming out as I remember, was to cut down my electric bill. The cans I have are not airtight ones, and maybe the heat escapes out the small openings so I did not feel much in the room. Best thing about incandescants is the ease with which they can be dimmed using a normal dimmer. Just make sure the dimmer is rated for the total wattage of lamps it will be controlling if you use dimmers. The CFL's I use now are not dimmable, and I'd be OK with them if they wouild last longer and not come apart almost every time I need to change one of the R30's They do use a lot less power and their price has come down dramatically over the years
    Last edited by BobL43; 12-30-2011 at 04:18 AM.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  5. #50
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Default WOO Hoo!

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Don, I actually have a bunch of real lightbulbs; lots are brand new in the boxes and many are used that I tried to give away to Habitat Re_Store, but they want only new ones, not like new ones. I donate a LOT of stuff to them, but when it comes to light bulbs, that they are fussy with. Our electric rates here on Long Island, NY are probably the highest in the country; its insane with taxes, it works out to about 27 cents a KWHour or more as I remember
    as promised, I attached a photo of the bulb as I had to remove it from the can fixture, but LO and BEHOLD, this one was installed over 3 years and 3 months ago. They must have slipped a good one in the batch, or I bought this one as a single bulb, not a multi-pack, but if they were all this good, it would be great! I was also able to reach in through the eyeball socket fixture and grasp the bulbs base itself after the large envelope was unscrewed from it.
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    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  6. #51
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Funny how everybody's experiences are different with supposedly the same items. Outside, in front of my house I have 10 post lights, wall brackets, etc. They all have CFL bulbs in them, some are spirals, some are the ones with the little glass covers on them trying to look like real bulbs. These all are installed base down. These last for YEARS, work through Winters fine, are on a photocell that turns them on at dusk, and we turn them off manually at around 11pm every night, and in the morning flip the switch back up so they will come on again at night. I never put an X10 module on this circuit. They are typically on for 7 hours a day this time of year and maybe 4 to 5 hours a day in the other seasons. they last for about 4 or more years outside in the fixtures which protect the bulbs from the weather, but not the temperatures Others say they do't work well in winter at cold temps; I never experienced that problem, although I do understand why they would. They are the 40 watt equivalent bulbs, all mixed manufacturers.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  7. #52
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    I was going to take my bad ones apart and see what part let go. They look like new. Still in Warranted. As my boy says "Time to Void the Warranty."

    My bad ones are 75 and 100W equivalent.

    I have a suspicion that the switching device shorts and then that burns out the ballast.

    Or blows the internal fuse.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  8. #53
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    I was going to take my bad ones apart and see what part let go. They look like new. Still in Warranted. As my boy says "Time to Void the Warranty."

    My bad ones are 75 and 100W equivalent.

    I have a suspicion that the switching device shorts and then that burns out the ballast.

    Or blows the internal fuse.
    Years ago my curiosity would probably get me to take one apart too. But these days, not so much. I don't think we could fix it anyway, and it wouldn't pay.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  9. #54
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Years ago my curiosity would probably get me to take one apart too. But these days, not so much. I don't think we could fix it anyway, and it wouldn't pay.

    I guess that I must be a Cat...
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  10. #55
    DIY Senior Member Chad Schloss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad Schloss View Post
    lucky you I have been seeing people posting in california, florida and new york with those at $25 each. here in michigan they are $39.97/each. online you can find a pack of 4 for 151.88. my local store price matched so i got them for the same price. just ordered 20 of them edison based ones and 3 of the gu24 style. figuring the cost for new trim was at least $200 and these came with trim make me want to look at them closer. By the way, if you have the short cans, like a Halo H27ICAT, you can't use the edison end bulbs (regular lightbulb end) you need to order the GU24 end and they will fit. Here is a Pic of the GU24 End (Require in places like California)

    http://www.*********.com/EcoSmart/h_...atalogId=10053 (edits say the big orange store, HD)

    I also tried the commercial electric led light for 5 & 6" cans. The color temp of those are at 3000 and they look like a nice light, just a little bright for me. they do fit in the shallow cans. For closet lighting I winded up getting these because they fit into a 4x4 junction box and will flush mount in a closet very nicely and are 3000K color temp and are pretty bright. 6" Disk Light made by Commercial Electric.

    http://www.*********.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 (edits say the big orange store, HD)
    So I installed some can lights earlier last week in my ceiling. Drywall is completely down. I used (3) of the Halo H27ICAT housings in a tight ceiling area. The Cree GU-24 base lamp is supposed to fit. Even if I were to use 5/8" drywall, there would be 1/8" gap with the supplied GU-24 connector. It adds about 3/4" depth to the light. The light is 5 1/2" tall itself, and the can is 5 1/2" deep. I contacted CREE and asked them what I should do. They said that this should not happen. I asked for advice, he just said to use 5/8" drywall. The can's are not adjustable to add depth, they do seem to be able to account for different drywall/ceiling thicknesses but only go as shallow as 1/2". I have thought about drilling the rivets ontop of the cans and making the top a little taller by ovaling out the holes where the rivets were and adding screws, or get a shorter GU-24 connector. So far, I was able to get a shorter connector. It measures 12mm thick, a little shorter than 1/2", not including what space the wires take up. I installed the lamp with this shorter connector and it fit better, as it was about 1/4" difference between the connector they give you with the lamps. I ordered them from here: http://www.greenelectricalsupply.com/ at this link : http://www.greenelectricalsupply.com...p-bracket.aspx This place is local to me and was shipped quick. The connectors are about $2 each.

    It looks like I now can use 1/2" drywall. I took a scrap of 5/8" and it now fits fine with a little room to spare. I may end up drilling the rivets to get the extra clearance to use 1/2" or try to hammer out the top a little with a piece of wood or something. Just thought I would let others know. here is the email I received from CREE:

    Hi Chad,

    Thanks for the email. We are sorry to hear about your installation problem. That definitely should not be happening. At this point CREE provides two connectors - Edison base and GU24 base. The downlight with GU24 base (CR6-GU24 = 5 1/2 “) is about 1 inch shorter than the one with Edison base (CR6 = 6 1/2 “). The height of H27ICAT is exactly 5 1/2 “ . After you install the housing in the ceiling, it is supposed to sit flush the ceiling (Not the metal can). With the being said, the total height space for CR6 would be 5 1/2 “ ( height of the ceiling) + 5/8” (thickness of the dry wall ceiling) > 6” which should provide enough space for CR6-GU24. Please let us know if the information we provide is able to fix your problem. For threaded hole design, you make some very good points. I will check with our team and follow through on these concerns personally. Thank you again for your suggestions and feedback.
    Last edited by Chad Schloss; 01-04-2012 at 03:17 PM.

  11. #56
    DIY Senior Member Chad Schloss's Avatar
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    I also noticed on the Gu-24 connector they supply that there is a threaded hole where the wires come out. That seems like a bad idea. If people try to cram the light in a short housing, you could cut through the insulation on the wire and cause a short. I put some heat shrink tubing over the wires on the three I bought just incase.

    here are some pics of the supplied connector vs the new one I ordered. notice the bump out in the rear of the supplied connector.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  12. #57
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update Chad.

    Sounds like you have been doing your homework..

    Very Nice Work.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  13. #58
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad Schloss View Post
    lucky you I have been seeing people posting in california, florida and new york with those at $25 each. here in michigan they are $39.97/each. online you can find a pack of 4 for 151.88. my local store price matched so i got them for the same price. just ordered 20 of them edison based ones and 3 of the gu24 style. figuring the cost for new trim was at least $200 and these came with trim make me want to look at them closer. By the way, if you have the short cans, like a Halo H27ICAT, you can't use the edison end bulbs (regular lightbulb end) you need to order the GU24 end and they will fit. Here is a Pic of the GU24 End (Require in places like California)

    http://www.*********.com/EcoSmart/h_...atalogId=10053 (edits say the big orange store, HD)

    I also tried the commercial electric led light for 5 & 6" cans. The color temp of those are at 3000 and they look like a nice light, just a little bright for me. they do fit in the shallow cans. For closet lighting I winded up getting these because they fit into a 4x4 junction box and will flush mount in a closet very nicely and are 3000K color temp and are pretty bright. 6" Disk Light made by Commercial Electric.

    http://www.*********.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 (edits say the big orange store, HD)

    So much for the HD and their pricing on these. I returned them today, and being I bought them in July, they said I had to take a store credit, so I said no problem. she issued me a store credit card for 54 bucks and I said what did you use to come up with that price? she said they are $24.99 each now plus tax. I said look at the receipt I gave you and see what I paid, which was 35 bucks each. I asked for a manager, who OK'd the credit for the price I paid plus tax. As I walked through the store Chad, the bulbs were now priced at $39.99!

    I hope the ones you bought work out better than the ones I returned. I'll wait a few more years before I try them again, and by that time I'll be in a rocker with somebody needed to wipe the drool off my chin, or I'll be gone.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  14. #59
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Bob,

    With the store credit you can buy your wife that gift that she has been wanting...
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  15. #60
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    Bob,

    With the store credit you can buy your wife that gift that she has been wanting...
    Yeah, I bought a roll of Schluter's Ditra for the bathroom floor I'm working on and more 7w candelabra base CFL bulbs, a bag of grout and some other stuff adding an equal amount from a credit card. That should make her happy
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

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