Installing Bar Sink and Utility Sink In Basement

Users who are viewing this thread

tlyoung99

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Louisville, KY
I plan to install a bar sink and a utility sink in my basement, both within 10 feet of existing soil stack. My questions center around installing drain/vent piping to both. Here's my current set-up (sorry,tried to stitch 2 photos together for clarity):
0tLJL.jpg

1a. Can I convert the existing cleanout (7" above floor) into a drain for both fixtures?
1b. If so, I would like to immediately turn the drain pipe back towards the wall so that we are not constantly bumping the pipe. What fitting(s) would provide a quick turn towards the wall and maintain a cleanout. I've seen elbows with threaded side inlets, but not 4". Any suggestions on how to turn quickly and maintain a cleanout?
1c. I have also seen this set-up on the forums.
washer_rough_b.jpg

This would eliminate the issue with bumping the pipe. What it the best way to add PVC pipe to the 2" cast iron/1.5" Copper transition? I've used no-hub couplings, but I want to make sure I meet code. I thought about transitioning the cast iron to a double sanitary tee, with one arm going to the washer, the other going to the sink drains, 2" both ways, 1.5" PVC to vent. Thoughts?
2. My preference is to tap into the washer vent as I can get to the 1.5" copper at eye level as opposed to having to work between the ceiling joists on the main vent stack. Does this represent an issue?
3. Can you review my proposed drain/vent piping for the 2 fixtures?
7z9af.jpg

I've researched on the forums for my particular scenario, but I want to make sure that I've got it right before moving forward.
4. I understand the 1/4" drop/foot for the drain piping. Any other rules I need to adhere to?

Thanks in advanced for any assistance.

tlyoung
 
Last edited:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,946
Reaction score
3,460
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Leave the cleanout there.

Choice 1) Pull the 1.5" pipe from the 2" cast iron hub and insert a 2" pipe there.

Choice 2) Cut the large stack, and install a santee close to the floor, and then add a new cleanout above that.
 

tlyoung99

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Louisville, KY
It looks like it is actually a reducing santee with 1.5" going to vent. I guess I can replacing with a non-reducing santee. This would give me an opportunity to swing the washer downpipe to the other side so that I can run my drains.

Does everything else look acceptable as outlined?

Thanks.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,946
Reaction score
3,460
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I didn't see the drawing before.

Running 2" to the santees is fine, with 1.5" out the top as a vent.
From vertical to horizontal, it would be a LT 90
The vents can use M 90's. I don't even bother buying "vent" 90's. They're more money and you can't find many places to use them.
No-hub shielded couplings, they make a copper by ABS transistion.
 

tlyoung99

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Louisville, KY
Thanks for all your help. I assume PVC is fine (you mention ABS)? In my area, I can find ABS fittings at big box, but no pipe. PVC is much easier to find.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks