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Thread: Installing Bar Sink and Utility Sink In Basement

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member tlyoung99's Avatar
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    Default Installing Bar Sink and Utility Sink In Basement

    I plan to install a bar sink and a utility sink in my basement, both within 10 feet of existing soil stack. My questions center around installing drain/vent piping to both. Here's my current set-up (sorry,tried to stitch 2 photos together for clarity):

    1a. Can I convert the existing cleanout (7" above floor) into a drain for both fixtures?
    1b. If so, I would like to immediately turn the drain pipe back towards the wall so that we are not constantly bumping the pipe. What fitting(s) would provide a quick turn towards the wall and maintain a cleanout. I've seen elbows with threaded side inlets, but not 4". Any suggestions on how to turn quickly and maintain a cleanout?
    1c. I have also seen this set-up on the forums.

    This would eliminate the issue with bumping the pipe. What it the best way to add PVC pipe to the 2" cast iron/1.5" Copper transition? I've used no-hub couplings, but I want to make sure I meet code. I thought about transitioning the cast iron to a double sanitary tee, with one arm going to the washer, the other going to the sink drains, 2" both ways, 1.5" PVC to vent. Thoughts?
    2. My preference is to tap into the washer vent as I can get to the 1.5" copper at eye level as opposed to having to work between the ceiling joists on the main vent stack. Does this represent an issue?
    3. Can you review my proposed drain/vent piping for the 2 fixtures?

    I've researched on the forums for my particular scenario, but I want to make sure that I've got it right before moving forward.
    4. I understand the 1/4" drop/foot for the drain piping. Any other rules I need to adhere to?

    Thanks in advanced for any assistance.

    tlyoung
    Last edited by tlyoung99; 07-24-2011 at 10:14 AM.

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Leave the cleanout there.

    Choice 1) Pull the 1.5" pipe from the 2" cast iron hub and insert a 2" pipe there.

    Choice 2) Cut the large stack, and install a santee close to the floor, and then add a new cleanout above that.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member tlyoung99's Avatar
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    It looks like it is actually a reducing santee with 1.5" going to vent. I guess I can replacing with a non-reducing santee. This would give me an opportunity to swing the washer downpipe to the other side so that I can run my drains.

    Does everything else look acceptable as outlined?

    Thanks.

  4. #4
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I didn't see the drawing before.

    Running 2" to the santees is fine, with 1.5" out the top as a vent.
    From vertical to horizontal, it would be a LT 90
    The vents can use M 90's. I don't even bother buying "vent" 90's. They're more money and you can't find many places to use them.
    No-hub shielded couplings, they make a copper by ABS transistion.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member tlyoung99's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your help. I assume PVC is fine (you mention ABS)? In my area, I can find ABS fittings at big box, but no pipe. PVC is much easier to find.

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