filter housing for best pressure

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Cindy Caragine

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Hi everyone, I am replacing my whole house water filter housing and can't decide between the small or large canister. I presently use a small canister that has 3/4" inlet/outlet. When the unit is apart I can tell the water opening is reduced to 3/8" on inlet and outlet side. Appears to be this way to allow for the bypass valve to fit within the head. All the small ones with the bypass valve appear to be made this way. The larger canister by ge without bypass goes from 1" inlet/outlet to about 3/4" or maybe even no reduction at all. The filters are pricey and I have noticed poor reviews on them. I need a filter due to high sediment. Can't go without one. Does the reduction from 3/4" to 3/8" kill the water pressure? Thanks
 

LLigetfa

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Is it like an oily stain and does it leave an oil-like film on the water if let to stand for a few hours? If so, it is likely manganese and you should explore specific solutions for it.
 

Ballvalve

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I find a gang of standard clear housing filters to be the low cost soultion. You can get a 1 micron or 5 on line for $1.65. And you can plumb them for a backwash.
 

LLigetfa

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And you can plumb them for a backwash.
Can you backwash manganese? I trap manganese in a stainless steel 100 mesh Banjo filter that I have to wash about once a year and that stuff is like ink. You don't want that stuff on your hands cuz it'll take a month to wash off. I've been considering replacing the bung on the bottom with a ballvalve.

You're right about ganging them. Running several in parallel reduces the inline restriction and frequency of filter changes.
 

DonL

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I find a gang of standard clear housing filters to be the low cost soultion. You can get a 1 micron or 5 on line for $1.65. And you can plumb them for a backwash.


Do you have a Schematic Drawing of the backwash pluming that you speak of ballvalve ?


DonL
 

Masterpumpman

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Does the reduction from 3/4" to 3/8" kill the water pressure?
Yes, anything reducing the size opening will kill the water pressure some! Water filters work but they are a headache. You have a well problem not a water problem. Anything other that fixing the problem at the source and in your case is the well is a patch. I suggest that you ask the driller to help you with a solution to the problem!
 

Ballvalve

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I put 2 or 4 on the inlet on a manifold, then usually down to one outlet unit, which can be the carbon or the 1 micron unit.

Backwashing with all the valves and piping only pays if you tons of junk in the water.

Tek supply shows one already plumbed up.
 
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