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Thread: Help with 2" Cast Iron Hub

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member victorhall's Avatar
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    Default Help with 2" Cast Iron Hub

    Hello all,
    I've been a huge fan of this forum, and have found many good answers on this site before thanks to the search engine. This time, however, I ran into a snag that's got me stumped, and greatly appreciate your sage advice!

    I've got a 2" cast iron hub sticking out of the ground. Above the hub was a galvanized steel system joined with lead and oakum. The steel was at the end of its life, and I am looking to replace with PVC. The joint is out, but none of the Fernco donuts fit: I tried the SV size from the big box store, and special ordered the XH size (P/N 22UX-205). But it's still too small. The ID of the hub is about 3 1/4", which according to the rep at Fernco is in-between sizes, making a donut not an option.

    I think the most painless solution is to buy a short section of cast iron, and remake a lead/oakum joint, then attach with a rubber coupling to PVC. But I have some unknowns:

    1. Does the cast iron look to be in good enough shape for this?

    2. Is the lead/oakum something an ambitious DIY'er can do? I can weld and solder, and am not afraid to do a little research and get my hands dirty.

    Thanks in advance!
    -Vic

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  2. #2
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Did you try the rubber insert with a piece of PVC stuck into it, because the pipe expands the rubber. If so and it's still too loose you can get a caulking ferrule from any plumbing supply house.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member victorhall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer View Post
    Did you try the rubber insert with a piece of PVC stuck into it, because the pipe expands the rubber. If so and it's still too loose you can get a caulking ferrule from any plumbing supply house.
    Hi Tom,
    Thanks for the reply! I did try the rubber insert with the PVC already sleeved, and it was still fairly loose. What's the scoop on caulking ferrules? Do they provide a leak-tight seal? I wonder if they're allowed by Code (I'm under the International Plumber's Code in my area.)
    -Vic

  4. #4
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    They are legal and arguably the best way to transition to PVC

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    A piece of 2" pipe, (cast iron or steel), with a lead/oakum joint is MORE than adequate for your purpose.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  6. #6
    Jack of all trades, Master of none KULTULZ's Avatar
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    Question

    I did try the rubber insert with the PVC already sleeved, and it was still fairly loose. What's the scoop on caulking ferrules? Do they provide a leak-tight seal? I wonder if they're allowed by Code (I'm under the International Plumber's Code in my area.)

    -Vic
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer View Post

    They are legal and arguably the best way to transition to PVC
    Can someone explain how to use a caulking ferrule? I am going to have the same problem with a neighbor's house and would like to know how to replace existing galvanized to 2" hub properly with CI NH.

    I hate to hijack a thread but I think this info should be contained within this thread for future search.

    THANX GUYS!
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  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Inserting ANYTHING into a cast iron hub is done the same way. You place it in position, pack oakum around it leaving about a 1" space above it, melt the proper amount of lead, pour it into the joint, then hammer the lead tight with inside and outside calking irons. Most "ferrules" are threaded which is not always the best way to transition to plastic.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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