Charp
Member
Thanks for a great forum, I've been doing a little lurking here trying to learn.
Our situation is that we had to sell the nice house I built 3 years ago and we bought a 33 year old severe fixer less than half the size. This house has only one bath but will be gaining another soon. When our youngest leaves for college this fall there will only be my wife and I most of the time. Unfortunately, there is no irrigation district water available in this area to water the yard and garden. Which brings me to what I know about the water system.
According to the county, the well is 295 feet deep and produces 5 gpm. This output was verified by a local well drilling company before purchase of the property. That company wants around $2,500 ball park to bring it up to snuff with no specifications. Everything looked original but I have since received a receipt showing the pump was replaced in 2004. The receipt lists the pump as 10LS10 1 HP SUB less Control Box.
The control box is probably an original Red Jacket. The pressure switch is a 30/50 psi. The well casing is PVC and looks to be 6 inches. There is a check valve on the output coming out of the split well-head. One of the pressure tanks is a Sta-Rite PSP220-T52 and the other is probably half the size or smaller Well Xtrol or something like that. The well house is 70 feet from the house and at least 20 feet lower. Water pressure in the house is too low and washing a car is ridiculous! Although at times outside spigots will have good pressure. I don't know the static level or draw down in the well. Today, the missus left the sprinklers on for half an hour and when she turned on the faucet the water came out a trickle. She turned the sprinklers off and the pressure in the house went back up but the water was "dirty".
I want to install a pitless adapter and move pressure tank(s) into the daylight basement along with any future filter and softening system to deal with H2S, iron and hard water. Sounds like a cycle sensor and cycle stop valve would be a good idea? I'm also unsure what to do about pressure tank number and size or whether I need a storage tank and booster pump? Any advice much appreciated. I ain't scared to tackle much of this myself as long as I have the info I need and schematics and diagrams and pictures are nice! I replaced the well pump, downpipe, control box, installed a pitless, wired and plumbed everything on a property we owned before, but that was 14 years ago, only 120 feet deep and I had directions on how to hook it all up! Thanks much, sorry for the kinda long post.
Our situation is that we had to sell the nice house I built 3 years ago and we bought a 33 year old severe fixer less than half the size. This house has only one bath but will be gaining another soon. When our youngest leaves for college this fall there will only be my wife and I most of the time. Unfortunately, there is no irrigation district water available in this area to water the yard and garden. Which brings me to what I know about the water system.
According to the county, the well is 295 feet deep and produces 5 gpm. This output was verified by a local well drilling company before purchase of the property. That company wants around $2,500 ball park to bring it up to snuff with no specifications. Everything looked original but I have since received a receipt showing the pump was replaced in 2004. The receipt lists the pump as 10LS10 1 HP SUB less Control Box.
The control box is probably an original Red Jacket. The pressure switch is a 30/50 psi. The well casing is PVC and looks to be 6 inches. There is a check valve on the output coming out of the split well-head. One of the pressure tanks is a Sta-Rite PSP220-T52 and the other is probably half the size or smaller Well Xtrol or something like that. The well house is 70 feet from the house and at least 20 feet lower. Water pressure in the house is too low and washing a car is ridiculous! Although at times outside spigots will have good pressure. I don't know the static level or draw down in the well. Today, the missus left the sprinklers on for half an hour and when she turned on the faucet the water came out a trickle. She turned the sprinklers off and the pressure in the house went back up but the water was "dirty".
I want to install a pitless adapter and move pressure tank(s) into the daylight basement along with any future filter and softening system to deal with H2S, iron and hard water. Sounds like a cycle sensor and cycle stop valve would be a good idea? I'm also unsure what to do about pressure tank number and size or whether I need a storage tank and booster pump? Any advice much appreciated. I ain't scared to tackle much of this myself as long as I have the info I need and schematics and diagrams and pictures are nice! I replaced the well pump, downpipe, control box, installed a pitless, wired and plumbed everything on a property we owned before, but that was 14 years ago, only 120 feet deep and I had directions on how to hook it all up! Thanks much, sorry for the kinda long post.