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Thread: Rebuild parts for 1989 Eljer Windsor one-piece toilet

  1. #16
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crosstalk View Post
    Sorry to hijack the thread, but I am wondering what happened with these parts. I too have one of these (mine is an Eljer Patrician which looks similar but the fill valve seems closer to the left side than the pictured one) and would like to figure out if there is a cheaper replacement fill valve (OEM one is something like $60). I just bought the house this thing is installed in and rebuilt the fill valve with new rubber parts for a 1b1x. My problem is that the cover does not fit well on the toilet (resting on one of the screws of the fill valve). It could have been like this originally but I can't figure out how to fix it. I tried turning the fill valve to a different position but there isn't one that seems to work any better. The toilet is running ok, but I am worried that the lid is going to cause a catastrophic failure. Does anybody know if the OEM fill valve is also marked 1b1x but slightly shorter?
    crosstalk, the fill valve in mine is a 1b1x, and I installed in in 2004. I can't believe it still works OK, but it does. I can't remember if the original was also a 1bix, but I think the marking was really close to that.

    I don't know if Terry sells these, but do a google search and you will see it for around 22 bucks.
    If I needed only that, I wouldn't have posted this thread; I need it, plus all the other doo-dads in the tank. right now I am redoing my other bathroom, and I did not want to mess with this toilet until the reno is done and the new bathroom in it is in business.
    Last edited by Terry; 01-20-2014 at 10:45 AM.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  2. #17
    Consultant cwhyu2's Avatar
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    Hi Bob,found your flush valve if you are still searching.
    You can call or order online.They will ship and it is in stock.The part # 18014

    1-888-ask-Noel
    Last edited by Terry; 01-15-2014 at 05:18 PM. Reason: oops

  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Hi cwhy2, thanks for continuing to look for me. The fill valve itself is not a problem, and i should have said that in my first post, although it looked like I said I was looking for the fill valve too . As I replied to crosstalk a few posts up, the 1B1X is the valve in my toilet. I bought one in 2004 at azpartsmanster.com. they still sell it.
    I have been working hard on my current bathroom reno (different bathroom than the one with the Eljer). It is gutted fully now and I have to put in nailers around the perimeter so I can install new t&g plywood subflooring over the joists, which are currently exposed.

    bob
    Last edited by Terry; 01-20-2014 at 10:46 AM.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  4. #19

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    Bob,

    I found a replacement flapper at a truevalue hardware store if that helps. My problem is that I can't figure out why the 1b1x interferes with the tank lid. I noticed there is a ballcock at ace hardware for one-piece toilets that looks similar but is a bit shorter. Although this one might solve the tank lid problem, I couldn't figure out how to hook up the diverter nonsense to it (different size rigid plastic outlet tube).

    Probably just need to replace the whole thing with a toto! I am worried that pressure from the tank lid will crack the ballcock that it is resting on and flood my house.

    Richard

  5. #20
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crosstalk View Post
    Bob,

    I found a replacement flapper at a truevalue hardware store if that helps. My problem is that I can't figure out why the 1b1x interferes with the tank lid. I noticed there is a ballcock at ace hardware for one-piece toilets that looks similar but is a bit shorter. Although this one might solve the tank lid problem, I couldn't figure out how to hook up the diverter nonsense to it (different size rigid plastic outlet tube).

    Probably just need to replace the whole thing with a toto! I am worried that pressure from the tank lid will crack the ballcock that it is resting on and flood my house.

    Richard
    crosstalk, maybe you can put a 1/4 rubber gasket or something between the tank and lid that would raise the lid enough to not contact the valve, yet no so thick as to raise it out of proper engagement with the tank?

    Bob
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  6. #21
    Consultant cwhyu2's Avatar
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    Hi Bob,I should have said flapper,in the plumbing trade they are called flush valves.
    Sorry about that,noel`s does have the flapper assembly you need.
    The part# is for the whole assembly.
    Hope this helps.
    Have fun
    Clay

  7. #22
    In the Trades CoastProductsUSA's Avatar
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    Name:  Screen shot 2011-11-11 at 4.07.24 PM.png
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    Pretty sure this is what you guys have been looking for.

    You can purchase these parts from Coast Products USA, formerly Coast Foundry and Mfg. We have over 112 different variations in Flush and Fill Valves alone, and can build basically anything you need.
    We also offer Plumber Direct Pricing to Industry Professionals.

    Visit us @ http://www.coastproductsonline.com

  8. #23
    DIY Junior Member wynnwill's Avatar
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    Question Eljer Windsor 1-piece Low profile toilet flushing problem

    I have a problem with the flapper valve of my low profile toilet: I have to hold the lever for about 7 seconds to get a good flush since the flapper I installed does not float the way it should. The toilet dates from about 1994 but has no manufacturer's name on it. The brass flush valve (in the picture) has the words "COAST FDRY" on the side. I stupidly managed to lose the rubber flapper and the large rubber seal that goes under the brass valve while I was doing some remodeling. I have tried a variety of generic rubber seals and flappers from my local hardware store, but none of them have helped: the flapper drops down as soon as I release the lever.

    Any suggestions as to how to fix my problem?

    My toilet looks rather like an Eljer Windsor 1-piece, so I wonder if one of the parts 495-5517-00 or 495-5517-00NH would work.

    Name:  toilet.JPG
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  9. #24
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wynnwill View Post
    I have a problem with the flapper valve of my low profile toilet: I have to hold the lever for about 7 seconds to get a good flush since the flapper I installed does not float the way it should. The toilet dates from about 1994 but has no manufacturer's name on it. The brass flush valve (in the picture) has the words "COAST FDRY" on the side. I stupidly managed to lose the rubber flapper and the large rubber seal that goes under the brass valve while I was doing some remodeling. I have tried a variety of generic rubber seals and flappers from my local hardware store, but none of them have helped: the flapper drops down as soon as I release the lever.

    Any suggestions as to how to fix my problem?

    My toilet looks rather like an Eljer Windsor 1-piece, so I wonder if one of the parts 495-5517-00 or 495-5517-00NH would work.

    Name:  toilet.JPG
Views: 140
Size:  32.5 KB
    A generic Korky flapper should work fine. I had the same symptoms in my AS lowboy toilet. Held the button down for months until I decided to figure out how to fix it myself since the building maintenance guys weren't going to get it right. The problem was that the building maintenance guys who installed the flapper didn't set the chain right on it. The trick to getting it to float is to pull it up high enough that it wants to float, and to pull it straight up. Just fiddle with the chain length and it will be fine.

    The flappers below come with a little round thingy that you could slip over an old metal overflow tube to attach the flapper to the flush valve. You'll need to cut that off when installing yours, and just slip the ears of the flapper over the pegs that I can see on the side of your flush valve. The instructions on the box show how to do that. Just use a scissors.

    You can use the black Korky flapper that every old-timey plumber uses because it's cheap and works: Model 54BP http://korky.com/Flapper54BP.html

    You can get the same thing in Chlorazone, which will last longer and resist chlorine: http://korky.com/Flapper2001BP.html I used that one for a while on my lowboy.

    You can also get the one that's designed for older toilets and should float a smidge better because it has a bigger ball. That's the one I'm using now: http://korky.com/Flapper2000BP.html

    Avoid the one that says it's for lowboys, 92BP. It's not for your lowboy and doesn't float well. Any of those above should totally do the job for you.

    PS Your old fill valve was made by Coast Foundry, now Coast Products. See the post directly above yours if you ever need a new fill valve for it.
    Last edited by wjcandee; 01-15-2014 at 06:47 PM.

  10. #25
    DIY Junior Member wynnwill's Avatar
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    Many thanks: I'll try that tomorrow.

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member wynnwill's Avatar
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    To follow up my post of yesterday:

    I got the Korky Flapper 20091BP and it works perfectly!!

    Many thanks again for your expert (and very rapid) advice.

    WW

  12. #27
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wynnwill View Post
    To follow up my post of yesterday:

    I got the Korky Flapper 20091BP and it works perfectly!!

    Many thanks again for your expert (and very rapid) advice.

    WW
    I couldn't be more delighted that it worked out so well! Congratulations! I know how frustrating it is when something apparently so simple doesn't work. I'm sure it feels good to fix it yourself. It always does for me.

  13. #28
    DIY Junior Member tmitch's Avatar
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    Default Older Elger Windsor toilet flushing by itself

    My Elger (looks like a Windsor circle 1985) started flushing on its own. Generally I replace the flapper and all is well. This time no go. It also flushes in the morning when I flush the master toilet (maybe water pressure build up?). I called a plumber who replaced the flapper and the flush valve. It's been two days and the toilet is back to where it was before I paid the plumber. At this rate I could buy a new one. Any ideas on this? I did the dye in the tank and water is leaking into the bowl. I replaced the flapper a couple times, cleaned the area under the flapper. Nothing seems to work. Thanks.

  14. #29
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    Have you felt the flush valve seat using your finger? Maybe there is something stuck there.

    There are repair products that include replacing the flush valve seat.
    http://www.fluidmaster.com/our-produ...pair-kits.html

    That is not to say that replacing the toilet would be a bad idea.

  15. #30
    DIY Junior Member tmitch's Avatar
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    I have felt the seat with my finger and it seems smooth and free of pits or foreign matter. The problem with replacing is that the toilet, sink, and tub are in a soft dove grey. To get a matching color would be extremely difficult and having a toilet in one color and the other fixtures in another is off putting. UGH!

    By the way, I also has the plumber replace the seal under the flapper as well.

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