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Thread: offset shower pan connection.

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Polecatt's Avatar
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    Default offset shower pan connection.

    Hello! First time poster here looking for some of the excellent ideas I have seen browsing through the site...

    I have a 2" drain pipe rough in through my new slab but unfortunately it is off where it needs to be. Based on the picture attached, the pipe needs to be 1/4" to the right and 1/8" down.

    Based on the OD of the 2" pipe, perfectly centered would have a half inch on all sides of the pipe. The opening in the shower base is 3 3/8"

    Any thoughts on what I need to do to get this connected?


    P1050120 by polecatt, on Flickr

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Break out the concrete. You will have to do it to some extent anyway for the drain to fit in the shower. Once that is done, the pipe will "flex" to the proper location. If the pipe had been installed properly, it would have had a "filler" around it so it was not secured in the concrete and the shower drain would have had the necessary recess into the floor.
    Last edited by hj; 06-25-2011 at 08:43 AM.

  3. #3
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Looks like you need to bust up concrete anyway to get the connections on. You should be careful of the demo process and once you get the connection glue up us an inflatable test plug and slide it down past the drain's top side to insure your connection is water tight. Flood it out for a good day or two - or three.

    Careful where you go banging and drilling. remember you will have a PTrap under that concrete...

    JW


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  4. #4
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    In most circumstances, when you get ready to set that pan in place permanently, you may want to use some deck mud or strutolite or similar material underneath it. This will support the bottom to prevent it from flexing, making it feel much more substantial, and preventing stress cracks which can lead to failure and prior to that, affect the cosmetic appearance.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #5
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Without seeing your walls, I would not completely rule out the idea of moving the pan. There may be some wiggle room already, which might be improved by hogging out the plate and the studs. I has been done before.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member Polecatt's Avatar
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    Thanks for the ideas. Looks like I'll need to break the concrete to move the pipe...

    How much clearance is needed to make the connection? The picture below shows the dimensions of the shower pan and the drain opening (pictured above) will sit 2 7/8" above the concrete. If this pipe were in the correct spot would that be enough room to get this connected without going into the floor?


    document_95_95 by polecatt, on Flickr

  7. #7
    Expert Plumber plumber2011's Avatar
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    Hi Polecat,

    2-7/8" would probably still require a little bit of room around the pipe, so no matter what you are going to need to chip out some concrete for sure. As stated by Jim (jadnashua), install the shower pan in a bedding substrate for best job (I like structolite for shower bases).

    You may also be able to use this offset shower drain (see image), but I think the offset needed at your shower pipe is too little for this offset shower strainer to work in this case, but you never know depending on how walls/setup. I still wanted you to know about it, OK?

    Good luck here!
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member Polecatt's Avatar
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    As for the placement of the walls, unfortunately there is no flexibility. This is a basement installation with 7" (unfinished) ceilings and in a attempt to save height the pan will be recessed into the slab by 3 1/2". This recess in the slab restricts my ability to move the pan around. I suppose I could fill the recess and lose the 3 1/2" but that would be my last option.

  9. #9
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    This is why most plumbers box out for the concrete pour and don't install a p-trap until the walls have been framed. It's kind of pointless to glue on a trap until the guys pouring concrete have gotten through bumping the pipes and the framer has decided on which side of the foundation he's pulling his tape from.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member Polecatt's Avatar
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    That makes good sense. Hopefully I can get enough out of the pipe once I break it up.

    What's the standard practice for finishing once the pipe is in the right place? If you box out the stubs during the main pour do they get filled later once the pipe is glued in the right spot or is it okay to leave this opening in the slab around the drain pipe?

    As for the pan support (structo-lite), this pan has integrated steel supports with height adjustable rubber feet as you can see in the picture below. Would you add something for support in addition to this?

    I've also included a picture of the slab recess...

    Thanks for all the help and great ideas so far!!


    P1050121 by polecatt, on Flickr


    P1050122 by polecatt, on Flickr
    Last edited by Polecatt; 06-26-2011 at 09:04 AM.

  11. #11
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    I would just go with the feet, but you can use a "filler" of some kind if you wish to. Unless the "hole filler" is moist when you put the base down, so you can "wiggle" the pipe into position, I would not worry about it.

  12. #12
    DIY Junior Member Polecatt's Avatar
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    It's been a while and work on the plumbing has been slow due to other projects however I now have this ready to connect up. Broke the floor about and inch and a half around the pipe, dug out one side of the pipe and went with the offset drain connection so only had to correct about a quarter inch in the opposite direction as the offset was over correcting. The connection ended up needing an additional 3/4" below the slab so as mentioned above, there was no way to avoid breaking the concrete.

    Anyway, everything lines up beautifully now. Jut need to glue it, put the base down, then silicone and screw the top on.

    Thanks again for the great help!

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