How to Connect Flexible PVC with no air leaks

**Rayroshi** · 07-03-2011, 02:45 PM

I am running a long suction hose from the river to a pump, in order to get water for watering my lawns during the hot, dry summer. The problem is that I had to join/splice two sections of flexible PVC hose between the foot valve and the pump. Because it's on the suction side of the pump, I can't have any air leaks, of course. I have tried using just the normal method of connecting the two sections of hose with a plastic, barbed connector and then clamping it with the typical little silver hose clamps that have a small "worm" thread (don't know how else to describe it) that is tightened with a screwdriver. No go; it leaks water and sucks air, no matter how much I tighten those clamps. So, here's my question: is there another way to connect those two sections of flexible hose together, such as with an in-line connector that is cemented in place? Can you glue flexible PVC? I know you can cement rigid PVC, and have done that, elsewhere, but what about the normal flexible PVC hose? And if gluing them together isn't an option, does anyone have an idea that will work, giving me a nice, strong air-tight connection?

**gritres** · 07-03-2011, 02:56 PM

you can glue it like normal PVC. some people say to just clean it well using water and not use the bottled cleaner or primer cause the eat at it too much. i've had great luck with just using a clean flex pvc pipe and normal PVC couplings and normal PVC glue.

assuming you mean flex pvc and not some sort of poly tubing

**LLigetfa** · 07-03-2011, 02:56 PM

See my reply here:

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...f-Flexible-PVC

**Porky** · 07-04-2011, 06:57 AM

I've never used flexable PVC however if it's really PVC I'd glue it but I wouldn't use barbed fittings. I'd heat one end and push it into the other. when it cools pull the ends apart and glue both ends and stick them back together. We do this all the time with rigid PVC.

**TJanak** · 07-04-2011, 09:12 PM

Originally Posted by Porky

I'd heat one end and push it into the other. when it cools pull the ends apart and glue both ends and stick them back together. We do this all the time with rigid PVC.

Can you elaborate on this? Are you making your own bell ends?

**gritres** · 07-05-2011, 06:04 AM

if the pipe is small enough and thin enough (in my experience 2 inch schedule 40 is where it starts getting very difficult but possible) you can easily use a heat gun to heat up one PVC pipe and force another pipe inside it to create a nice custom bell end. From what porky said it sounded like he was doing the reverse and squeezing the hot piece inside the cold piece but i've never done that before. I've done this with poly and PVC and probably killed some brain cells from the chemicals created in the process. i don't know if it's feasible with flex PVC (i think it'd be pretty ugly) but i'm not even convinced thats what the original poster is using.

**ballvalve** · 07-06-2011, 01:13 PM

OK - the deal on FLEX pvc. Its great stuff, I carry 1" all the time and its a lifesaver. You can glue it - I use primer and thick grey pvc glue. Hold in longer.

Slips right on a GOOD barb fitting, but gotta cut it off. Dont tighten the clamps much.

Some good stores sell PVC white water line to hose adapters in one piece. These work good. reduced flow

Problem: 70 PSI in hot areas max. Should keep it covered. [never had one break yet even at 80psi working] NOT FDA approved or WSF. Got that plastic softener in it that make hair grow on your wifes nose. In short [typical] sections, its great, saves hundreds of fittings, and probably wont shorten your life by a day or so at best.

Maybe a better bet is the clear vinyl braided 150psi with barbs and clamps.

As to big PVC and any, really, hot water is all the MFG. allows as torches change the crosslinking of the pipe if heated just a bit and its a future break. For FLEX PVC, I glue it all the time for tank hookups right into standard couplers.