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Thread: Old one-piece with leaking flush valve, American Standard 2000/2149/2005 ?

  1. #1
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Default Old one-piece with leaking flush valve, American Standard 2000/2149/2005 ?

    Here is one I don't normally see. A one-piece toilet with a strange looking flush valve. It's leaking, so I need to find parts. This is a picture that a customer sent.

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    http://www.plumbingpartsdepot.com/as2000curtin.pdf

    http://www.chicagofaucetshoppe.com/A...curtain-50.htm

    I'm thinking American Standard 2149
    Last edited by Terry; 06-24-2011 at 10:06 AM.

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    It converts to the "tip flush", I believe #4. The replacement has three rubber plugs to seal the bolt holes, and attaches with "toggles" through the center opening.

    http://www.chicagofaucetshoppe.com/P...AS-47086-0700A
    link added by Terry
    Last edited by Terry; 06-24-2011 at 06:08 AM.

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    Consultant cwhyu2's Avatar
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    Also the over flow is below the handle.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Yes, I was looking at the fill tube, I would think that whoever did the work before should have directed it to the overflow under the handle. Though since it's been years since I've worked on one of these in person, I'm not sure that it "has" to go there.
    Most likely it should. I'm still trying to find original pictures showing it complete with the old ball on an arm style fill valve.

    I did see three on these on Somerset years ago. We pulled them out and replaced with Toto Ultramax toilets. They homeowners wanted to save on their water bill. I was called when they got a very high water bill, and out they went. The old American Standard bowls that is.

    They were friends of my parents, hearing was not so good. I had been to the home to replace a lav faucet six weeks previous and had mentioned that they were leaking. I can walk into a home and hear those kind of leaks. They thought I was pulling their leg though. It was a frequency that they couldn't' hear. They could read the water bill though six weeks later.
    Last edited by Terry; 06-24-2011 at 10:31 AM.

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    Consultant cwhyu2's Avatar
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    The original fill valve had a copper or brass refill tube,and did not need a clip.
    I worked quite a few of these and was the only one in the shop that could take them apart.The kit HJ posted works good.
    As far as the refill tube goes I made clips out of guide wires and siliconed the to the over flow,not the best way but keep the tube in place.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Some of the newer tanks had a hole in the ceramic above the overflow for the refill tube to slide through. A Fluidmaster clip can be "bent" to grab the wall of the overflow. Without the refill tube into the overflow, it is problematical whether there will be enough water in the bowl at the start of the flush to perform properly.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    It originally had a plain brass ball cock with a float, similar to an Indiana Brass one. They were generic to all the the companies tanks at the time. And since they fit ALL tanks, they were like the Fluidmaster of their day.

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    DIY Junior Member natron's Avatar
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    So I have a toilet (American Standard One-Piece 2149) with a flush value that is almost, but not quite, identical to this one. My "can" is one piece, including the top of the can, and the metal ring is a separate piece. The can screws into the ring with 3 screws, and then of course the ring screws into the tank with 3 more (I can post a picture if anyone is interested).

    Anyway, the thing is leaking a little. I am looking for a fix that will be dependable and economical. I tried just flipping the gasket, and that helped, but it is still seeping. I have found the leather washer for sale online, but it looks like it might cost at least $10 (or more) including shipping. That seemed like a lot considering I don't even know for sure if that will fix it. For all I know, the ring at the bottom could be leaking or something like that. At that rate it seems like maybe I should just bump up to the flush tip #4 kit, but it looks like that will cost about $50 including shipping. At that rate, would it be better to just install a new, more efficient toilet, or is this old-style one worth keeping around? I'm just trying to decide if it is worth investing money into this old toilet.

    Thanks in advance for any advice! By the way, I have taken this valve to 3 hardware stores and 2 plumbing supply wholesalers, and no one has ever seen anything like it. So kudos to the posters on this thread just for knowing what the heck it is.

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    DIY Junior Member natron's Avatar
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    Is this any different than the one shared by HJ in post #2 above? Basically it is 47086-0700 vs. 047107-0070A with the latter being a lot cheaper and more readily available. I can't tell if the 047107-0070A comes with the 3 plugs for the tank, but I should be able to get those fairly cheaply even if they aren't. But othewise it looks like the same thing to me. Any other opinions?
    Last edited by Terry; 02-16-2014 at 05:58 PM.

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    I use to work on those on the regular. It uses a leather gasket. . A gasket compresses between the china and the flushvalve to seal it there.
    Last edited by Hackney plumbing; 02-27-2012 at 01:30 PM.

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    DIY Junior Member natron's Avatar
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    I ended up buying a square of red rubber gasket material from Ace Hardware and cutting my own gasket for the cannister flush valve. Maybe not a permanent fix, but working fine so far and a lot cheaper than special-ordering a replacement leather gasket.

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    Quote Originally Posted by natron View Post
    I ended up buying a square of red rubber gasket material from Ace Hardware and cutting my own gasket for the cannister flush valve. Maybe not a permanent fix, but working fine so far and a lot cheaper than special-ordering a replacement leather gasket.
    Good idea. Let us know how it works out. I used some of that same sheet rubber to make a gasket for a Kohler faucet that kohler no longer made. They redesigned the part and of course it didn't work.

  13. #13
    DIY Junior Member abd4evr's Avatar
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    Default 047107-0070A Works on old 2005 toilet

    Just used the flush valve referenced above (047107-0070A) to replace the old one that was in my 1962 2005 toilet. Seems to work fine, and am no longer running 10 GPH down the drain... However, mine did not have the three holes, and the kit does not come with the plugs. On mine, there was a clip for the fill tube that was attached around the inside fastener for the handle, so that a fluidmaster fill tube clipped right on.
    Last edited by abd4evr; 03-20-2012 at 08:00 PM.

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    DIY Junior Member clneu's Avatar
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    Default Found replacement part but missing plugs for ceramic holes

    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    Yes, I was looking at the fill tube, I would think that whoever did the work before should have directed it to the overflow under the handle. Though since it's been years since I've worked on one of these in person, I'm not sure that it "has" to go there.
    Most likely it should. I'm still trying to find original pictures showing it complete with the old ball on an arm style fill valve.

    I did see three on these on Somerset years ago. We pulled them out and replaced with Toto Ultramax toilets. They homeowners wanted to save on their water bill. I was called when they got a very high water bill, and out they went. The old American Standard bowls that is.

    They were friends of my parents, hearing was not so good. I had been to the home to replace a lav faucet six weeks previous and had mentioned that they were leaking. I can walk into a home and hear those kind of leaks. They thought I was pulling their leg though. It was a frequency that they couldn't' hear. They could read the water bill though six weeks later.
    For our Kohler circa 1944 toilet, I flipped over the leather seal back in 1995 to resolve leakage -- a local plumber who was about 70 at the time told me to do this with the remark, "Wow, I haven't seen one like this in a long, long time." That bought me time up until now. Before I found this website, I located a this page, http://www.lawsupply.net/brass_ware/...alve/index.htm, and bought this one, http://www.chicagofaucetshoppe.com/A...7086-0700a.htm.

    It seems to fit, but the ceramic screw holes outside of the large opening are exposed.

    I need to somehow plug those holes.

    Any suggestion/reccomendation?

    Thanks!

  15. #15
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    If you pay for water and sewer, do yourself a favor and dump it for a new one! If you dry it out for a day or so, you could probably use something like KerdiFix, which is a urethane based sealant. You'd likely never get it out should you need to do any maintenance the next time, though.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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