Shower Valve Replacement for American Standard N 1130-1

**bphodgesus** · 06-18-2011, 07:09 PM

I have been struggling with this stuck shower faucet valve for hours. It seems to be an American Standard from what I can read on the escutcheon plate. I have not been able to identify any similar model in their catalog. I have looked in HD plumbing dept and didn't see anything similar. Do you know what this valve is? Can you tell me how to replace it? I would like to turn my water back on, but the valve leaks inside the wall now when the water is on. Thank you.

The escutcheon plate that appears to read: American Standard
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/919...618163016a.jpg

After removing the hex set screw and handle.
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2500/...618163036a.jpg

Faucet and tube.
http://img863.imageshack.us/img863/4...618163050a.jpg

Close-up of valve, chrome tube and mix valve.
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/9...618163103a.jpg

A view from the side.
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/1...618163119a.jpg

What happened when I tried to unscrew tube from valve to find attachment screws.
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/2...618175327a.jpg

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**Terry** · 06-21-2011, 10:20 PM

My parents had that valve installed in 1962. That would almost be 50 years ago.
I've been plumbing since 1974, and my parents home is the only place I've seen one.

About ten years ago, I replaced all of their tub and shower faucets with Pressure balanced Moen valves.
The American Standard valves were durable.

http://www.plumbingpartsdepot.com/aspushpullshwr.pdf

**cwhyu2** · 06-21-2011, 10:31 PM

Loosen the two screws to the left & right of the valve body it may come out in one piece,if not time to replace.

**bphodgesus** · 06-22-2011, 08:22 AM

Thank you very much, guys. I was stumped, and no-one seemed to recognize this beauty. Wow, I guess it is durable. It just recently started leaking and I have lived here for 11 years...but the early 60s sounds about right given some of their choices in tile, etc. That also explains why I couldn't find it in their catalog.
Thanks again.

hj · 06-22-2011, 10:28 AM

Actually, it used the same style mechanism that Schaible and Kenmore sink faucets did. The main problem with them was that the handle OPENED the faucet, but the springs inside had to close it, and they sometimes got stuck which would let the faucet drip, leak, or run, depending on the severity, but there was NO WAY to stop it unless you could operate the handle and get things back in their proper places. Years ago there was a company making a replacement "front unit" for it that just fastened back on with those same two bolts. Do an Internet search for "American Standard push-pull conversion unit". A company called M-One is at least one who has the part. They advertise it is a "20 minute replacement".

http://www.m-onespecialties.com/repair.asp

hj · 06-22-2011, 07:32 PM

Terry, you are spoiling him, I did NOT want to give him the link. I figured it would be a good exercise for him to look it up himself, which might help him with other issues later in lkfe.

**Terry** · 06-22-2011, 08:00 PM

Hey, without you, "I" wouldn't have found the link. It was good for me!

**bphodgesus** · 06-23-2011, 09:32 PM

Thanks again guys!

hj · 06-25-2011, 01:14 PM

quote; without you, "I" wouldn't have found the link

In that case I will give you this one for free.
Nomix Inc. repair cartridges that fit Mixet brand valves
It is a Moen style stem to replace the Mickey Mouse one that Mixet uses.

**bphodgesus** · 06-26-2011, 09:08 AM

Is it possible to replace this entire valve without removing the fiberglass shower, or making the hole larger? It doesn't look likely to me, but maybe you pros have a trick or two? It is screwed into galvanized pipe on 3 sides (l, r, top). I have been planing on tearing this shower out and tiling, but am not really ready (money or time wise). I replaced O rings in the valve and have a worse leak inside the wall than before (when the house water is on). If I do need to tear it out, any suggestions for how to proceed? Thanks again.

**Terry** · 06-26-2011, 11:25 AM

If you need a larger hole to work in, you can use a remodel plate.
We do it all the time.

**bphodgesus** · 07-16-2011, 01:02 PM

Hi guys. I just wanted to thank you all again for your help and guidance. Sorry I left things hanging. I haven't been working on this as I had an accident with a car while riding my bike (I was wearing my helmet and you should too). Just bruised my leg up pretty good which made walking, let alone riding or plumbing quite uncomfortable. In the mean time I did open up the hole a bit bigger, unscrewed the cold from one side and capped it, then cut the hot side, unscrewed it and replaced with a capped 3 foot nipple. That stopped the leaking/having to turn the water supply on and off hassle. That has kept us going for the past couple of weeks while healing. Now I am starting to feel like getting started on the demolition, which was always in the cards eventually as we hate the small plastic shower ca. 1960. I have started taking the glass portion of the enclosure apart, then will rip the plastic part out. I think I will have to cut it to get it out the door though. Any advice, inspirational words, etc? Any way thank you again.

**Terry** · 07-16-2011, 02:52 PM

A sawzall works good for making those into smaller pieces.
Please get well so we can see the finished product. I used to commute on my bicycle from the South End of Mercer Island to downtown Kirkland when I worked in a bicycle shop.
It took me 20 minutes in a car and 42 minutes by bike. It was great in warmer months here. Using the bike I could take shorter routes and average 20 miles an hour. I stayed in pretty good shape then.

Since you are pulling everything out, I would plan on installing a new pressure balanced valve.

**bphodgesus** · 07-16-2011, 05:44 PM

Thanks for the well wishes. I am looking forward to getting back to my bike commute soon. I will install a pressure balanced valve, and I will keep posting and post the finished product. Now I have old galvanized pipes, but am not ready for a complete copper re-pipe (financially, nor size of project), but I am wondering, is there a way, and if so, should I do all my new installations in copper adapted to the existing galvanized pipes so that they don't need to be done with the eventual re-pipe. Also is there a practical way to essentially do a piecemeal re-pipe job?
Thanks again.