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Thread: Well guy says "Dead Short", Steel Drop Pipe has weird pock marks on it

  1. #16
    DIY Senior Member Smooky's Avatar
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    There could be many reasons for corrosion, pH, hardness, alkalinity, temperature, salinity, dissolved oxygen, CO2, etc. There may be more than one issue or not. I'd check to see if it is grounded properly. Also check to see if any unnecessary appliances are grounded to the plumbing. Galvanic corrosion usually happens close to where the dissimilar metals join. The black soot could be from hydrogen sulfide. Sulfate reducing bacteria produce hydrogen sulfide. Hydrogen Sulfide is an acid which can cause corrosion. You might want to do a complete water analysis to help determine what is happening.

  2. #17
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    So... nobody wants to address the pump motor cooling issue?

    A 4 inch rock well only 45 feet deep that is 10 feet above sea level. Where is the water coming from? My guess is most of it comes from above the motor and as such the motor won't get adequate cooling.

    I wouldn't dwell too much on the pitted iron pipe. Put in PVC as mentioned and call it done. If there is electrical leakage that may also cause pitting on the pump, address it. If there is a hole in the pump motor, declare it. I'd be more concerned as to why the pump failed.

  3. #18
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    That is just regular old rust on the steel pipe. Doesn’t even look like Galvanized, looks like black pipe. Either way steel pipe these days is missing something, mainly quality, because it doesn’t last for crap. I have pulled some that was so full of holes you can’t even make a good fence post out of it. That is one of those new Pentek/Centri-Pro motors, wouldn’t surprise me to just be a bad motor. Could also be cooling, but that is easy to determine by checking the stickup height of the motor shaft. And if it is cooling in 4” casing, all you can do is raise it up as high as you can and still be under the pumping level. 5 year warranty use to be standard. I guess nobody does that anymore? I wonder why?

    Plastic pipe, Franklin motor , and raise it up a few feet.

  4. #19
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    For monster deep wells, US made Galv. pipe, anodes, and cold galv spray on the exposed threads. Last forever.

  5. #20
    In the trades WellWaterProducts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballvalve View Post
    For monster deep wells, US made Galv. pipe, anodes, and cold galv spray on the exposed threads. Last forever.
    What type of anode?
    ----
    Chris Kofer
    h2oguy.com




  6. #21
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    If you search online, some companies sell nothing but anodes and can advise on a solution and method of application.

    I have not done it, but it certainly seems to makes sense as a boat wouldnt float with tons of them.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode

    http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...er-anodes.html

    http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/z...aft-zincs-inch

    Magnesium is likely best, and they can also be used to preserve steel well casing.
    Last edited by ballvalve; 06-18-2011 at 09:56 AM.

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