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Thread: This should be an easy Delta question for you guys!

  1. #1
    HVAC Contractor Marc46's Avatar
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    Default This should be an easy Delta question for you guys!

    My house was built in 1992.
    I have a large shower only in the second bath that uses one of the old Delta single handle controls. I think it is a 600 series from some of the pics I have looked at, but not certain.

    Anyway, I started having a small leak about a week ago when taking a shower.
    It is dripping out from behind the handle slowly when the water is on. No leaks from anywhere in the off position.

    Just wondering what parts I need to do a rebuild.
    I would love to replace the entire fixture, but where my back access is to the assembly makes it a nightmare, and more work than I want to get into right now.

    Actually I probably should do a complete rebuild after this many years regardless of what individual part is causing the issue.

    Thanks for any help with numbers,.......I can shoot a pic if it is needed to identify the exact model.

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Depending on the model, all it may need are some springs and seals...the hard part may be getting the ball cover off without damaging it. A picture would help.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    HVAC Contractor Marc46's Avatar
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    I will take a pic this weekend to clarify the model. I also understand what you mean about that ring.

    I have good water, but it is an old fixture.

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    In the Trades Jerome2877's Avatar
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    Springs and seats replacement is when the leak is coming out the spout. You need a new O ring.

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    It depends on whether it has a lever or rotary mechanism, since I also replace the cartridge or ball.

  6. #6
    HVAC Contractor Marc46's Avatar
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    Here is a quick pic. It must be leaking around the handle stem, and shooting into the hollow of the handle and dripping back out when being used. It does not leak anywhere when off.

    Name:  marc_delta.jpg
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    Last edited by Terry; 05-14-2011 at 03:38 PM.

  7. #7
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    It is an easy fix. you need to replace the cam packing, RP188 in the diagram. You will probably find a kit at any hardware store with ball, seats and springs, and the cam packing. Make sure to take your ball with you. You probably have the diamond shape stem. need to get same. The hard part is getting the bonnet nut loose. DO NOT TWIST IT TOO HARD. Soak in vinegar for a day, try to turn. If it does not move easily...STOP. You can try heat ( hair dryer) and may need to slice it open with a small hacksaw blade or dremel. THe nut is readily available for replacement.

  8. #8
    HVAC Contractor Marc46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo View Post
    It is an easy fix. you need to replace the cam packing, RP188 in the diagram. You will probably find a kit at any hardware store with ball, seats and springs, and the cam packing. Make sure to take your ball with you. You probably have the diamond shape stem. need to get same. The hard part is getting the bonnet nut loose. DO NOT TWIST IT TOO HARD. Soak in vinegar for a day, try to turn. If it does not move easily...STOP. You can try heat ( hair dryer) and may need to slice it open with a small hacksaw blade or dremel. THe nut is readily available for replacement.
    Yes,.....I know for a fact it is the diamond shaped stem as I replaced the handle a number of years ago.
    Is the 'bonnet nut' that dome shaped cover that rides under the handle with the serrations on it?

    Also the part# you gave,......is that a standard Delta part# or do I need to find the exact model I have. Do you know if I was right in terms of it being a 600 series?

    I have a dremel if needed, so that is no issue. I am good at most mechanical things,......I just happen to hate plumbing! No offense meant. LOL
    Thanks much!

  9. #9
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Yes, the dome shaped cover/nut needs to be removed to gain access. If you squeeze too hard, you can deform it, making removal harder. If you twist too hard, you can ruin the whole thing by twisting and kinking the supply tubing. The dome is pretty generic. Make sure the water to the house (or if you are lucky to the valve) is off before you tear it apart.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  10. #10
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Default wd 40 the hell out of it first..........

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Yes, the dome shaped cover/nut needs to be removed to gain access. If you squeeze too hard, you can deform it, making removal harder. If you twist too hard, you can ruin the whole thing by twisting and kinking the supply tubing. The dome is pretty generic. Make sure the water to the house (or if you are lucky to the valve) is off before you tear it apart.
    we had a call yesterday that we could not get to ... the exact same faucet...

    the homeowner basically forced the bonnet with a pair of pliers and tore the whole thing right out of the wall....

    had to shut down the whole house till he could find a plumber willing to come up to his house at 245 on a friday afternoon...

    was gonna charge him about 500 for anew delta faucet but had to refer him to another plumber in the area .....


    be careful with that nut or you will regret it.....WD40 is your freind
    hose it down, then give it a few raps with some plliers to loosen it up , then see if it breaks loose....

    we have sawed off many of them with a hack saw...

  11. #11
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    I repair that damage for about $200.00. I have never had to cut a cap off.

  12. #12
    HVAC Contractor Marc46's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info guys. I have the nut soaking right now.
    Is there any part number for the whole kit?
    Just that I would like to buy the kit before I tear everything apart, as this shower gets used a LOT.

    Actually last night it didn't leak at all while using it,.......I don't get that part.

    Edit: Well last night after being finished with that shower, I took the handle off as well as the wall plate and stuffed a rag in the hole to absorb any dripping WD-40. I soaked it again before bed, and then again about 8AM. Just went in there with a big pair of channelocks with a rag around the bonnet nut. Nothing but slippage, and I quickly realized I was gonna bugger the external serrations anyway. Git rid of the rag and tried again,...........nothing. Got out a small pipe wrench and tried that.

    Well like some of you said, I actually started to turn the copper piping on the back. I didn't break anything as i saw it start to move. I simply turned it back that 1/64" roughly to get it straight again VERY gently. No leaks, so I didn't crack any of those three copper tubes in back.

    Looks like I am going to have to cut it off with a Dremel as if it was gonna move, it should have after all that soaking. Funny thing is there is ZERO mineral build-up around that nut junction, WTH? At this point I am afraid of trying to turn it again due to work-hardening the copper.

    How do you Dremel off the section where the serrations are without ruining the threads on the body for a new bonnet nut? Yea,.......maybe I am a dope, but if there is a secret I need to know it! LOL
    Last edited by Marc46; 05-15-2011 at 09:20 AM.

  13. #13
    HVAC Contractor Marc46's Avatar
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    Here is another pic of it open.
    I am wondering if a really good plumber would be able to change the entire fixture from the front? If some of you guys think so,......I may just take the opportunity to update it. Let me know on this option too if you would.


  14. #14
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Many new valves are wider, so the supply lines are unlikely to line up and you may need more room. If it can't be done with the existing hole, they do make remodel/renovation cover plates specifically for this sort of situation. This is the one made by Delta...each company makes one and the style differs, but the function remains the same. http://www.deltafaucet.com/repairpar...s/RP29827.html
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  15. #15
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    A "really" good plumber would probably be able to replace the valve from the front, but he would also be able to remove the "dome nut" without cutting it or damaging the copper tubes holding the faucet together. The copper tubes are NOT "work hardened" and they WILL twist off very easily if you abuse the faucet body.

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