Installing TOTO

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Shimmies99

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I see a thread for installing Toto Drake II, a genuine plumber would have no issue or need of instructions, correct? It is intended for homeowners and do it yourself-ers? I am an excited owner of new Drake II which I was able to purchase in my area after a little research. NEXT showroom even had a Toto w/ cyclone flush hooked up for demo. Calling my plumber tomorrow to have him install for me but I am mildly tempted to try myself.
 
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Terry

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With Jamie's instructions, my customers do a good job.
Of course we do a good job too when we do the installation.
Not everyone wants to lug them around.

I let someone else change my oil now; it's easier when they can recycle the oil they take out.
 
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Cacher_Chick

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DIY RULE #1

Never start a job at night expecting to finish it. Something is bound to go wrong and/or you will need something which you do not have.
 

Shimmies99

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ha ha, thanks for the advice, I agree. Thanks also to Terry for response. I will let you all know how it all turns out.
 

Higgledy

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I am "attempting" to install a Drake toilet. This is my first toilet install of any brand toilet. I am at the point of bolting the tank to the bowl. According to the (Toto's) instructions, the tank is to be level before you tighten the bolts. I assume that is level front to back, not side to side? I get the tank level, but as I tighten the bolts the tank seems to become unlevel, front to back. Do I tighten the bolts till the tank sits on the bowl? I am really nervous about tightening to much and busting something. Thanks for any help.
 

Terry

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You can set it level, front to back, and side to side. With one arm, you can push down, and the second to tighten with. It drops into the cradle, touching on three points.
 

Higgledy

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I got it in! Thanks Terry. Here it is swallowing string cheese,


Yes, that is my wife in the background. LOL.
 
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Higgledy

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I spoke to soon. I have a leak at the wax ring. Could it be the closet bolts are not tight enough or is a leak at the base always a faulty wax ring install and I got to take the toilet out and start over?
 

Terry

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Wax rings.
Set the wax rings on the floor, and then drop the bowl down over the wax.

But not literally drop it.
One of our customers "dropped" a bowl on his concrete garage floor. China doesn't bounce.
 

Jadnashua

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If the bowl rocks, the wax ring will squish and not rebound, leaving a gap, when it rocks back the other way. If the bowl doesn't sit flat on the floor with no wax ring, you need to figure out where to put shims, then install it with a new wax ring. If the flange is recessed, you may need two wax rings, or a jumbo to properly seal. You should be able to feel the wax squish when you push it down. Once it is flat on the floor, then tighten the bolts to hold it in place. Use your weight to set it.
 

Higgledy

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I did feel the squish of the ring when I pushed the bowl down. The bowl does not rock, except there is a small squeak that was not there with the previous toilet, but it dont think the bowl is moving just the floor squeaking. I don't know, I guess I'll watch it over the next day or so. And check for leaks then.
 

Jadnashua

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Squeak implies movement. Movement can compromise the wax seal. May or may not be a source of a potential leak.

If the original toilet leaked below, the subfloor could be compromised. Or, the joists and subfloor may have been severely compromised when they put the original plumbing in. Each toilet has a slightly different footprint, and the old one may have been larger, and may have caught a joist. The new one may not, and if the subflooring is weak, the whole thing could move.

Do you have access from below? If so, you may want to take a close look and maybe reinforce it.
 
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Cacher_Chick

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As stated, always set the toilet in place first WITHOUT the wax ring to make sure it sits flat and does not rock. Often the floor or the toilet itself is not perfectly flat, and shims are required to prevent a future leak.

There is nothing worse that having to pull up the tile and damaged subflooring a year or two down the road because the toilet was not properly installed.
 

Higgledy

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This is the first toilet I ever installed. I did place the toilet on the flange without the wax ring for fit. It did not rock or move during that check so I continued installing with the wax ring.

I saw the water last night on the left side of the bowl. I dried it with a towel. Since last night, we've been using the toilet as normal and have not seen any water. How can I be sure it is not leaking?

I did not torque the closet bolts to much, I was worried I'd crack the china. How tight can I tighten the closet bolts before the flange or china break?

Thanks.
 

Higgledy

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Squeak implies movement. Movement can compromise the wax seal. May or may not be a source of a potential leak.

If the original toilet leaked below, the subfloor could be compromised. Or, the joists and subfloor may have been severely compromised when they put the original plumbing in. Each toilet has a slightly different footprint, and the old one may have been larger, and may have caught a joist. The new one may not, and if the subflooring is weak, the whole thing could move.

Do you have access from below? If so, you may want to take a close look and maybe reinforce it.

I don't have access below w/o taking out drywall. The subfloor seemed solid from above when I had everything apart. If the old toilet were leaking wouldn't there be marks on the drywall below?

Also, the new toilet's footprint is larger than the old toilet. The old toilet left an indentation in the vinyl, which I cannot see with the new toilet installed. I only saw the water around the bowl one time last night. My son denies it, but maybe my son missed the bowl?

Thanks.
 
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Higgledy

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Wax rings.
Set the wax rings on the floor, and then drop the bowl down over the wax.

But not literally drop it.
One of our customers "dropped" a bowl on his concrete garage floor. China doesn't bounce.

That is exactly what I did. I centered the closet bolts on the flange. Placed the wax ring on the flange. Place the bowl on the wax ring, using the closet bolts as a guide to centerline the bowl outlet with the flange. Then I pressed the bowl into the wax straight down with equal pressure, left to right. I was careful not to twist or rock the bowl. Then I installed and tightened the nuts to the closet bolts. I thought I did it perfect, but honestly I screwed-up my first wax ring and this was my second shot.
 

Jadnashua

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Another thing that could leak is from the tank to bowl. While it's usually tight from the factory, there's a big nut that holds the drain connection from the tank to the bowl in place. If that is loose, it can leak. You'll need to remove the tank to check, though, so verify other things are not loose first. If you do take the tank off, take some emory cloth (or sandpaper) and smooth the area under where the tank bolts and the filler and drain holes are, if you take them off. It only takes a few seconds once everything is apart, and if there's any roughness there and the nut isn't tight, that can allow a small leak.
 

Shimmies99

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I had my Drake 2 installed today. My floors are really cattywampus and my TOTO needed lots of shimming. I think my plumbers did a nice job and I am happy I used a plumber. I will let you know how satisfied we are once we are up and running, but so far I am quite happy. To other poster, it doesn't hurt to look around or ask for best price on TOTO. I paid at least 100 less than list (i think). But not as low as what Seattle Terry sells it for.
 
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