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Thread: Peerless 5600 Resin in Water Supply

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Mgbss's Avatar
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    Default Peerless 5600 Resin in Water Supply

    I could have only guessed there was a Forum for Water Softeners, How Cool

    Anyway I have a Peerless Softener that is probably 20 years old and from researching I believe it is a Flec 5600. During the past few years I had to replace the Electric motor as it died and now about a year ago I had to replace one of the plastic gears as a tab broke off of it.

    Over the last 6 months it has seemed like the water wasn't getting quite as soft but haven't checked its hardness and a month ago I had the screen on my washing machine plug up with very fine white beads, replaced the screen and again the water is coming in slow on the cold side. I have also cleaned these beads out of the airaters on the faucets.

    I am guessing a screen or valve has failed but not sure also not sure where to get parts online. I would like to just rebuild the head completely if parts and instructions are available.

    Any thought or advise would be appreciated
    Joe

  2. #2
    In the Trades SacCity's Avatar
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    Twenty years old, sound like time to replace the hole unit.

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    DIY Junior Member Mgbss's Avatar
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    Saccity

    Thanks for the helpful reply.

    I guess maybe I should have started with is the white Beads I am finding in my Plumbing screens Resin? I am on Public water and also have other homes on this same public water system and nothing like this is showing up in any of them. My house has CPVC Water lines approx 10 years old.

    Thank you
    Joe

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    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    It sounds to me that the distributor tube has broken and you are getting resin in the lines. Put the unit on bypass, then clean all the screens. You can get all the parts to rebuild the head and replace the resin for about $250.00. What part of Mich are you in. I have family in NW Detroit

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    DIY Junior Member Mgbss's Avatar
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    Mialynette2003 Thanks for the reply

    I am in Mt Pleasant about 2 hrs from NW Detroit. The peerless dealer in our town is a well supply store and they are not to up on these units I have gotten parts there before but I have to explain everything and in this case I am in the dark so Talking to them or getting parts there would be difficult Do you know of a source for parts, do they have a rebuild kit for these or is it something you have to get all parts separately?


    Thanks again
    Joe
    Last question if the tube is broke is that a replaceable piece?

  6. #6
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    There is at least one site that I know of that has fleck parts, they might have a total rebuild kit.

    The tube that might be cracked can be replaced....but chances are that it is the 3/4" and not the 1" that is mostly used today,,, so a change to the valve in that area would also need to be done.

    Might there be a photo of the unit so that we know we are talking about the 5600 or did you positively id the valve at the pentair web site?

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    The price I quoted was for 60032 brine valve, 60125 basket & seals, 60102 piston, 13497 air disperser, 12638 o ring, 13301 o ring 2 ea, 13303 o ring, 13305 o ring 4 ea, 13302 o ring, 1 cu ft resin and the distributor. I could supply you with the parts. I would need to know the size of the distributor tube 13/16 or 1.05.

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    DIY Junior Member Mgbss's Avatar
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    Thank you both for the reply

    I will get a picture up with numbers to verify the unit.

    I assume I will have to disassemble the unit to get the Distributor size.

    I will get a picture and see if my manual has a good blow up of the parts so I can make sure I have my ducks in a row.

    I would much rather rebuilt it than replace, I will get back with you

    Thanks again
    Joe

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    DIY Junior Member Mgbss's Avatar
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    Not sure how to load up a picture on this forum but I did go to the Pentair web site and it looks to be the same as mine 5600 econominder the only difference i see was on the back of the head mine is open on the top so you can see the motor looking straight down.. The serial # on the head is 2295301 Peerless has its own ser #21192-m.

    Looking at my service/owners manual shows a fair blow up of the head I certainly think this is due-able 1 question i have does the distributor just come out of the tank when the head is threaded off? 2nd question what is the basket on your above list of parts?

    Thanks again
    Joe
    Last edited by Mgbss; 04-21-2011 at 06:43 PM.

  10. #10
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    There are times that when the head comes off that the distributor will come up a few inches and then there are times that it will stay and not move.
    Either way it will come out of the media tank, getting a new one in if the media stays can be a trick..
    If a new one goes in then the end hole has to be covered so that the new media does not go down the hole, a piece of duck tape works great to cover the hole and is easy to later remove after the media has been loaded into the tank.

    Why the need for the upper basket? more times than not they are a problem later on in the life of the unit... if the plug water pressure for back wash and for in the house goes down.
    Don't get one unless your really really just have to have one.

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    DIY Junior Member Mgbss's Avatar
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    Still not sure where the Basket is its not shown on my blowup or it is called something else. Is The Media more than just Resin? I assume if rebuilding and replacing Resin I would just empty the tank to install the new Distributor, or am I mistaken.
    Last edited by Mgbss; 04-22-2011 at 04:42 AM.

  12. #12
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    It may be called a spacer. The spacers are ports that when the piston moves up or down it will open or close a port directing the water in a certain direction. The basket & seal comes as a kit so the part # I show is the kit # and not individual pieces. Yes you would want to remove all the old resin and start new. Once you remove the valve from the tank, turn it over and in the center is where the dist tube goes.

  13. #13
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Most manuals do not show the basket , but it would be under the valve body if they where to show it.
    Basket is Basket and Spacer is Spacer... The two are not interchangeable.

  14. #14
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    If you are going to change the dist. tube, order a 1.05" pilot and 1.05" tube. The pilot is due to not knowing what dia tube you have now.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  15. #15
    DIY Junior Member Mgbss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    If you are going to change the dist. tube, order a 1.05" pilot and 1.05" tube. The pilot is due to not knowing what dia tube you have now.
    That makes sense, basically upgrade to that size.

    My blowup does show a spacer, I thought it looked like a screen but the explanation above makes sense as a basket, it shows a seal above and below it.

    Question: what does resin look like and what size is it? What I have in my faucet screen is a white ball about the size of a flea. Just want to make sure I am truly loosing resin.
    What else is in the tank besides resin? Above I thought the quote was for a cu. ft. of resin the tank seems much larger than that, could be wrong of coarse.

    Thanks again
    Joe
    Last edited by Mgbss; 04-24-2011 at 02:38 PM.

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