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Thread: Installing a 2 piece Toto - tank won't seat all the way

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member rsmith99's Avatar
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    Default Installing a 2 piece Toto - tank won't seat all the way

    I am getting ready to buy another Toto 2 piece toilet. The last was a Gwyneth, now Ultrmax ll.

    The last time I installed the Gwyneth I could not get the tank to completely seat on the base. I could not compress the gasket enough. I was afraid I would break the tank. The tank is level to the base.

    Does anyone use plumbers grease (sylicone?) to lube the rubber gasket and make it easier to conform to the base and tank?

    Also, the location for the new toilet was ruffed in at about 14" instead of 12" this leaves about a 2" gap between the tank and the wall. I am afraid someone may lean against the tank and break it. That's why I may lean towards a one piece toilet. Any thoughts on this?

    Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    I think you may be are being a bit too cautious. If you alternate tightening the tank bolts, the tank and bowl should come together, but it will take some pressure with a wrench. I don't know about plumber's grease, but do not use silicone. Now as far as the 14" rough-in, have you considered one of the toilets that use the Unifit adapter? I believe there are 3 models that use this, and that would put your toilet in "normal" position. If you get the tank and bowl seated properly, I don't think there is great danger in breaking it, my Drake and Dartmouth are sitting on exactly 12" rough-ins, but still have 2" or so space behind the tank, and I don't see how 2" more would create any more risk of breaking, but the extra space looks kinda hoakie.

  3. #3
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    As long as you tighten the bolts evenly, side to side, a bit at a time and don't tighten them so much you are trying to compress the porcelain, you shouldn't break anything. I like to insert a thick piece of paper, and stop when there is friction, but I can still pull it out. If I did this every day, that wouldn't be necessary, as you develop a 'feel' for it. Almost no toilet is designed for the tank to be supported by the wall, there is almost always a gap designed in. It gets pushed to the wall because the flange isn't positioned properly or someone made the wall thicker (say put up tile or other trim).
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member rsmith99's Avatar
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    Default Plumbers lube

    Does anyone ever use plumbers lube on the tank bolts and tank gasket?

    Seems like it might help seat the tank gasket.

  5. #5
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    No. They do not.
    Everything gets installed right out of the wrappers. Hundreds every year, and never a problem.

    Instructions by James

  6. #6
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    As long as you don't crank one side down fully before you start the other, it will tighten down. Just do maybe a turn at a time alternating side to side until it's where you want it. The porcelain isn't resilient, so as a guide, I like to put a thick piece of paper between the points where it touches and stop when I can still pull it out without tearing. Then, you know you don't have a tight porcelain to porcelain situation. As long as you leave at least a minimal gap, it's not too tight.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member rsmith99's Avatar
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    I tried your advise using the paper. Everything went fine.

    Thanks for the help!

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