Main Drain Pipe Leaking

Maxxfusion · Apr 14, 2011

I have a 4" ABS pipe in the basement coming out of the floor. It goes to a sanitary tee and then reduces down to a 3" pipe. From there it goes up and bit and and uses 2 45 elbows to to shift a bit before going up the wall. Right at the connection of the first 45 its starting to leak. These pipes appear to be the original from when the house was built in 1976.

My question is whats the best way to repair this without have to open any walls. I was thinking about cutting the 3" pipe above the reducer and then try to break the pipe out of the pipe at the first 45. Then if that goes well glue in a new piece of ABS into the 45 and use a boot to connect the straight pipe.

Does this sound like the right direction?

Gary Swart · Apr 14, 2011

You will need to use a banded coupler rather than just a neoprene sleeve since this is above ground, but you have the basic idea.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Maxxfusion · Apr 14, 2011

Is a banded coupler the same as what you would use when going from ABS to PVC? I had to use a gray rubber boot i got from HD when i went from abs pipe to pvc pipe for my shower drain.

I didnt know if there where any tips or tricks to help get the pipe out of the 45. I really dont want to have to replace those 45s. If i do then thats means cutting drywall in my kitchen.

BenWara · Apr 14, 2011

you mentioned your line has 2 45 degree elbows. I added a T in my main line so I could add a sink. I cut out the area with the 2 45s so that I could add in my T without having to use once of those flexiable couplings. It was really hard to get it all together but I was able to do it. I practiced once with out glue just to make sure It would all go back together.

I twisted the upper and lower one inward to the to piece that was at a 45 degree angle would go together. I don't know how to explain it good but you can get it all back together with out using one of those couplings if you want. It just maybe more work.

BenWara · Apr 14, 2011

oh also (you may already know this) but they make a tool that is a steel cable that has a loop on each end. You pull that back and forth and it will cut the pipe. I googled and found a tip that you can take a hose clamp and clamp around the pipe where you want the cut. then use the cutter and you will get a really nice square cut.

You picking up what i'm putting down? it doesn't leak and got the okay from building inspector

hj · Apr 15, 2011

Wire saws do NOT work well with ABS, because the ABS melts and then immediately solidifies again. There are "fitting saaver drill bits" which will remove the pipe from the 45, but trying to "chop" it out will damage the fitting.

Maxxfusion · Apr 15, 2011

Can i get these drill bits at lowes? Do i need to order online?

Maxxfusion · Apr 16, 2011

hj said:
Wire saws do NOT work well with ABS, because the ABS melts and then immediately solidifies again. There are "fitting saaver drill bits" which will remove the pipe from the 45, but trying to "chop" it out will damage the fitting.

I found a couple of these bits online. I cant seem to find the locally. I found the Pipe Hog which seems to be made nicer. And the Ram Bit. Which one is the better bit? Does anyone have any experiences with these?

Pipe Hog
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Rex-1...HCQO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1302962779&sr=8-8

Ram Bit
http://www.amazon.com/Pasco-3253-3-ram-bit/dp/B000VYJW0O/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_-2_t_6

hj · Apr 16, 2011

They will both work, but the RamBit, which I use, should be considerably less expensive.

Maxxfusion · Apr 16, 2011

hj said:
They will both work, but the RamBit, which I use, should be considerably less expensive.

Actually yes you are right. The ram bit is about $14 cheaper. I will go with that. Is there a good place you recommend to buy this at? I really would have liked to get it locally. Does the ram bit come with everything i need?

Dlarrivee · Apr 16, 2011

maxxfusion said:
I really would have liked to get it locally but the big box stores done carry this for some reason.

Really, you don't see why?

Cacher_Chick · Apr 16, 2011

It's because the big box stores don't sell many things worth having.

Jadnashua · Apr 16, 2011

Almost any decent plumbing store is likely to carry the tool. Often, they are not open late or weekends, so that may be an issue if you can't get there during normal hours. They cater to actual plumbers, but most will sell (at a higher price, usually) most anything they carry.

Shacko · Apr 16, 2011

If you have never done this before I think you should use the banded coupling, it will be easier, your call.

Maxxfusion · Apr 16, 2011

shacko said:
If you have never done this before I think you should use the banded coupling, it will be easier, your call.

Thanks. I have a rubber coupler that looks like that but doenst have the metal layer. I saw those there but I thought those were for metal to plastic pipe. Should I use one of these instead?

Jadnashua · Apr 16, 2011

ANY use above ground needs the band. Below ground, you can support the pipe to keep the ends aligned. Above ground, you MUST use the banded coupling (per code).

Cacher_Chick · Apr 16, 2011

I've heard the spiel about the banded coupler a thousand times now, and I agree that it is a good idea.

BUT- it is not a requirement in MY state's plumbing code NOR have I seen anyone cite which plumbing code does REQUIRE it.

Again, I'm not arguing that it is not a good idea, but I don't like to see things being "mandated" without seeing it in writing within the applicable code.

Maxxfusion · Apr 16, 2011

I just looked at the one i have and its called a Flexible Coupling. Will that not work? How is the banded coupling different?

Cacher_Chick · Apr 17, 2011

A banded coupler (also called a shielded coupler) has a full width stainless steel band around the entire circumference of it. It it there to provide rigidity to the joint to keep the pipes in alignment.

http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings

Jadnashua · Apr 17, 2011

The flexible thick rubber will stretch, and the ends of the pipe can offset significantly if there is any weight or stress on it. The bands keep everything lined up, and, because of the reinforcement, the whole thing is thinner and you have a chance of the pipe fitting in a wall cavity when using the larger sizes.

Main Drain Pipe Leaking

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