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Thread: Deep Water Well Pump - 120v or 220 v?

  1. #1
    sea-bee chuck b's Avatar
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    Default Deep Water Well Pump - 120v or 220 v?

    Will be having a new water well drilled/installed for up north cottage in a couple of months. Have been on a shared well so new to wells. What are the pros and cons to installing 120v vs. 220 v submersible pumps?

    Also, what are details in well design should I consider, e.g. is there a way to drain line before winter between well and cottage (100' or so).

    Also, after the well line enters the cottage, can I "T" it off with the expansion tank one way, and the sediment filter the other way, or do I need to put them in a seperate order, i.e. expansion tank 1st, then sediment filter, then water softener, then hot water tank?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    I advise to go with a 220V system as they draw less amps. The only advantage of a 110V system is powering it with a cheaper genset.

    For drain-back, there are specialized systems available for cottages.
    http://www.cottagewatersupply.com/

    Most all tanks use a Tee of some sort. Some tanks may have a separate in and an out so the Tee is part of the tank. With the exception of a sand separator, in-line filers should always be placed after the tank.

  3. #3
    In the Trades Texas Wellman's Avatar
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    Although the 110 and 220 set-up use almost the exact same electricity I always advise to go 220, which seems to give more reliability in the long run.

  4. #4
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    I recommend that you use a 220 volt pump because amoung other advantages you can use smaller wire. I would also recommend that you install a Pside-Kick. With it you'll have a smaller tank, less pump cycling, constant pressure and less water to drain down in the winter.

    You can install a small valve below the pitless adapter (that can be opened by a long rod attached to the valve handle). When you want to winterize the system, cut off the power to the pump, drain the pressure in the system, open all the faucets, then remove the well cover (NOTE: Some states only allow a licensed drilling/pump contractor to do this.), open the small valve to allow the remaining water in the system to siphon back into the well. We did this in all hunting cabins in North Central Pennsylvania some 20 plus years ago.
    There should be nothing between the pump check valve on the pump and the outlet of the tank, such as filters and water conditioners.
    Porky Cutter, MGWC
    (Master Ground Water Consultant)

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