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Thread: Bathroom remodel (sheetrock wall question)

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member ingeborgdot's Avatar
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    Default Bathroom remodel (sheetrock wall question)

    We are now in the process of remodeling our bathroom and tearing down the old tile that was on the wall. Some of it is tearing some of the paper off of the sheetrock. Do I need to worry about that or not? We are going to just smooth out the old texture and put a slight orange peel over it. I have seen a sheetrock repair product that is supposed to fix paper tears on sheetrock. What is your opinion and advice? Thanks.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    I wouldn't pick up anything special for fixing this, whatever drywall compound you use to finish the seams should take care of this too...

  3. #3
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    I would be surprised if you could tear a properly done tile job off drywall without causing a lot of damage to the wallboard.

    More often than not it's best to gut the drywall and start fresh. This would be the ideal time to check the insulation in exterior walls and make any desired changes to lights, switches, receptacles, plumbing, etc.

    But if you are otherwise happy and it the tiles are coming off the walls that easy, dlarrivee is correct.

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    I must have only skimmed the original post, if you're tearing off tiles from the wall I would just demo the whole thing and start fresh...

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    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Ja, sometimes it's easier to just remove the drywall and re-rock. If the damage is not too bad and/or you don't want to disturb crown moulding, etc. you can just skim coat plaster over the damage.

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    DIY Junior Member BenWara's Avatar
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    depending on the size of the bathroom I would just re sheet rock like other suggested. There could be water leaking behind the wall for all you know causing mold. When I bought sheet rock for my garage it was less than $10 a sheet. It would be best to buy drywall intended for a bathroom (usually a different color). Also keep in mind they sell joint compound intended for use in high moisture environments that will resist bacteria.

    I suggest you make a trip to your local home store they can show you products to put up that will be better to use.

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member ingeborgdot's Avatar
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    I took down all the walls and am going to use new blue rock. I have run into a little craziness that can be solved but want some opinions. One of the things was some electrical wiring had been spliced behind the wall with only tape and no box. Got that fixed so no problem anymore. The other problem is the air vent that runs up to the attic is causing a little problem. I always wondered why my sheet rock always seemed to have a little bulge behind my toilet (that is where the vent is). Well, the vent actually sticks out almost a half inch past the 2x4 which they used for walls there. They had bent the sheet rock somehow and molded it against the pipe. What do you think would be the best way to go about with the new sheet rock? Just curious what others would do. Thanks.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    If you can't move the vent, you could consider making the room smaller by shimming that wall out enough to cover the pipe. Depends on what else is on that wall.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member ingeborgdot's Avatar
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    Okay, let me see if I can explain why this my not work to do that. The tub is about18" away from the toilet. The guy that built the bathroom made it exactly 60" wide and 12' long. The tub I have is 60" long. 59 1/2" of wall won't work. Ideas?

  10. #10
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    The tub goes in "stud to stud" and that didn't change. Furring out the wall will not affect the tub much, although it could make it just a little trickier to ever replace it.

  11. #11
    DIY Senior Member ingeborgdot's Avatar
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    I suppose that would be okay, so lets hope we don't have to replace it. Taking it out would be easy enough cause we would break it up like I did with my old one, but getting a new one in would be a little harder I think. I guess that is what I will do.

  12. #12
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Put the tub in. Install the cbu around the tub. Install the tile. If the rest of the wall was shimmed out around 1/2", it would then be close to flush with the tile. So, rather than the tile being raised when following the wall, it would be flush. Now, if the cbu and tile plus thinset wasn't exactly the right thickness, put some shims behind the cbu. this also has the advantage that you may be able to run the cbu down over that tiling flange, rather than terminating it above it. You still want a gap between the horizontal surface of the tub and the cbu, but it only needs to be around 1/4" or so.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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