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Thread: Prepping for unifit adapter

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Arlington22207's Avatar
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    Default Prepping for unifit adapter

    I'm about to install ceramic floor tile in my remodeled bathroom. The CL on the cast iron flange is going to end up about 13 1/2" from the finished wall.

    The Toto Vespin II I ordered arrived last night. Reading the instuctions on the 14" unifit adapter I see that it's going to require four screws (and plastic sleeves) through the finished tile to secure it. I am wondering if anyone who has experience installing a unifit adapter would recommend anything before I install the tile?

    I was thinking of pre-measuring and pre-drilling into the durock, or even removing a small amount of tile where the screws will have to go in...although I'm not sure that would create a very secure mount.

    Or should I just continue as usual and worry about screwing it in later?

    I will be having a professional plumber make the final connections but I don't know if he has any experience installing a unifit before.

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Just tile normally, and then use a 1/4" tile bit for the four holes and use the provided plastic inserts and stainless screws.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member jpbrown22's Avatar
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    I'm also installing a Toto Carlyle using a 14" unifit rough-in. The water closet flange is currently flush with the prepped concrete so will be about 1/4" blow the finished floor once tile is installed. Any recommendations on approaching this with a 14" unifit adapter? Can you use spacers w/caulk or should I go with one of the fluid master extenders, or is the wax ring enough?

    I also realize that the toilet supply is currently 5" from center of the flange and needs to be moved/routed out to 8" from center for the Carlyle. Any recommendations in accomplishing this without tearing into the wall?
    Last edited by Terry; 04-07-2011 at 12:33 PM.

  4. #4
    One who lurks Basement_Lurker's Avatar
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    The wax ring will be enough. If your tile is very cheap, or the drill points are close to an edge/corner, you have to be careful or you risk cracking the tile. Some manufacturers make a special shut-off valve for skirted toilet installations, but you are better off moving the supply and anchoring it properly.

    http://www.terrylove.com/wc/unifit.htm


    Last edited by Terry; 04-07-2011 at 01:09 PM.
    Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me? -Jack Handy


    www.blackbirdkitchenandbath.com

  5. #5
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You might need a jumbo wax ring. It will be obvious when you push the Unifit adapter down onto the flange. If you can feel it compressing the wax, it is okay. Depending on how cold that wax is, it may take some leaning on it to seat it fully. When you set it on the wax and flange, if it is sitting up at least 1/4" or so before pressing it down, you should get a decent seal. If the flange isn't level, you may need thicker wax. If the condition of the drain pipe is good, a waxless seal will work, but is 4x more expensive.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member jpbrown22's Avatar
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    Thanks! This forum is really helpful and a great resource!

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