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Thread: Hot coming out of cold... Boilermate/Coil issue?

  1. #31
    DIY Member watson524's Avatar
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    Seriously??? I'm going to do that right now. Thanks!!! Is there any merit to the switch thing? (Not doubting Jim but I've heard so many mixed things....)

  2. #32
    DIY Member watson524's Avatar
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    Ok here you go. (I also noticed the high was set to 170 and low to 150 with a diff of 10 and I'm wondering if that should be 180H and 160L or if it's close enough)

    In case anything isn't clear, I jotted down the following notes:
    To the L1 screw is the black from the main switch (hot I assume)
    To the L2 screw is the white from the main switch
    To the B1 push on post is the red from the main switch
    There's a yellow wire coming in from the main switch (on the bottom) that is just coiled up and not attached - bad or ok?
    The yellow under the H dial goes to YL on the control board - this looks like a permanent connection - not screw or push on
    The red under the L dial goes to RD on the control board - also looks like a permanent connection
    White from the DIFF dial to WH on the control board - permanent connection
    From the push on post top left is a black wire to BK on the board (permanent connection)
    From the push on post top right is a blue wire to BL on the board (permanent connection)
    Thermostat wires to T and T at top

    I'm guessing it's the red under the L dial to RD on the board that needs to get cut (looks like it can't just pull out or unscrew so it's a pretty permanent change) but let me know what you think. I guess it could also be the blue wire (purely based on location related to H and L dials)

    Also, if I did want to put said wire to cut on a switch, can I just run wire up out of the box next to the T stat wires and over to a switch somewhere. Not sure where I'd mount that......

    thanks!

    Last edited by watson524; 05-19-2011 at 06:38 AM.

  3. #33
    DIY Member watson524's Avatar
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    Hi there. Just wanted to check in on this. I'm thinking it might be the blue wire based on something I read online. Looks like I could just pull it out and then if necessary, put it back in during heating season?

  4. #34
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    The Blue. Pull it and cap it.

  5. #35
    DIY Member watson524's Avatar
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    Awesome, thanks! Where can I send cookies?? :-)

  6. #36
    DIY Member watson524's Avatar
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    Good deal, I pulled the wire but left the connector on and electrical taped it off and my husband just took a shower. The boilermate zone called for heat so I ran down and the boiler was down to 120 degrees and then ran until it hit about 145 - 150 when the boilermate zone stopped calling for heat (the boilermate is set at 135 - 140) and it shut off. Good stuff! So if I understand this right, the boiler will only run when a zone calls for it and will shut off when either a.) the zone stops calling for it or b.) it hits the high limit of 180, whichever comes first, right?

  7. #37
    DIY Member watson524's Avatar
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    I'm reviving this post because when our oil company service guy came out to address my other burner issue (i.e. lockout when it's on its own cold but resets and works just fine and then will fire again fine if it it's still warm), he said that it's not just taking the blue wire off, there's 2 other wires that have to be wire nutted together but he didn't have his manual. There's no truth in that right? I trust the good info I got here but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something and can't see what other 2 wires it would even be.

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