How deep is the well? Even if you could push down a one-piece liner, I doubt the packer ejector would fit down it any longer.
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is it possible to line a 2" casing? i have a 1" drop pipe foot valve and leathers and jet pump i think i have a cracked coupler about 30' down pulled drop pipe this weekend installed new leathers put in first 10' of pipe filled with water leathers and foot valve held water. dropped second 10' section filled with water again everything held. dropped third 10' section filled with water and water bled back down well. help!!!!
How deep is the well? Even if you could push down a one-piece liner, I doubt the packer ejector would fit down it any longer.
whats the water level? u know how much casing is in it?
water level is around thirty feet there was 40 feet of drop pipe so im guessing not more than fifty feet
id first try pulling up the jet above the "hole" and running it like that. doesnt matter if the jet is set above the water level.. with the packer jet, it will pull it up.
i'd try that first, but it might pull junk through the hole and pump dirty water.. maybe. if it does, you can construct a little liner pipe and install it just underneath the jet's new location to block the hole.
i was thinking of that didnt know if it would work or not but basically the packer jet assembly is above the hole ond footvalve is dropped down to the water if i leave packer jet at 20' and put the other 20' of drop pipe on footvalve it will still pull the water up? i actually bought a surveillance camera at ******* 29.99 and dropped it down to see if i could see anything didnt actually see any cracks or holes but did notice at the joints i could see the threads of the 2" coupler i thought i had read that a drive coupler lets the pipe ends butt together to make a stronger joint which i could see they are not
Since it is at the third coupler that you encountered the leak, the other two couplers above should answer your question about pipe ends butting. Decades ago when my father and I washout drilled his well, he made the mistake of trying to use EMT couplings instead of drive couplings.
My guess is that frost may have grabbed the first section of casing and lifted three sections of it. Placing the Packer just above the failed coupling and extending the footvalve the remaining distance will get you water, but as swas mentioned, there is a possibility that some ground water and dirt could come at the failed coupling.
you dont need the "tailpipe" underneath the jet. hook the foot valve strait to the jet like normal and install it above the hole.
i think the "hole" and water level are about the same height ill have to check next weekend when i head back up to the cabin if water level is below the leak i shoud be able to use a tailpipe shouldnt i ?
you wont need a tailpipe even if the foot valve will be above the water level. the jet/foot will pull the water up to it when priming. if you are just convinced that you do need one, dont use larger than 1" foot valve.
whats the reason for foot valve no larger than 1" ?
if ur installing foot valve strait to the jet like normal and setting it above the hole, use 1 1/4
if ur installing a "tail pipe".. use 1" because u will be installing it underneath a hole that could allow junk to fall in the well.. ud like to be able to pull it back out, and 1 1/4 is already a tight fit. the 1" is a safer bet, and it won't restrict any water with that type of pump setup.
gotcha ill let you know how things went after next weekend thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!
made it up to the cabin this weekend pulled drop pipe and reconfigured packer /jet at 20' and felt better with tailpipe back down to 40' primed well and wouldnt you know it held. no more cycling. thanks for all the advice everyone i have learned alot about sand point wells the last couple of months!!!!!!!
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