To replace the remote panel will do nothing to establish a ground fault path but would ensure a parallel grounding path on this system which would be more dangerous than not having any grounding path at all.
If I were to replace the sub panel and feed it with a grounded conductor, tied back into the main panel in the same fashion as all the other circuits, with the neutral isolated in the sub panel, then how would this ensure a parallel grounding path? I ask this for my understanding, not to be argumentative.
Well let me tell you just how sorry I am that you come here posting about wanting to make your system safer and posting a picture of 30 amp fuses on #14 conductors. I would have long ago corrected this in the name of safety if safety was what I was looking for
I would hope that this board does not encourage people to only pictures of NEC compliant wiring, for fear of being chastised for having not already corrected it. That does seem a little backwards. I was aware it was bad and am here to improve it. This house has probably been wired like this for 10 years, so me spending a little time to find out exactly what is on each circuit before messing with it further does not seem unreasonable.
at the time of installation the bathroom circuit was code compliant and needed not attention at all except maybe installing a GFCI receptacle
I do not believe this to be true. I had to install new outlets and my local building code which says it is based on the 2007 building code, contains in the section on bathroom remodels "New outlets are required to be on a dedicated 20amp circuit". I was striving to wire the whole bathroom in a way compliant with a new installation, even if not strictly necessary, I think it is certainly an improvement.
And the simple answer is to hire an electrician to do a revamp on both panels. Now I understand this is not the answer you are looking for but it is the best advice anyone can give you.
the entire change out is way over your head. IF it were not over your head there would not be 30 amp fuses in that panel any longer than it would take to change them back to 15 amp fuses.
Yes the simple answer is definitely to hire an electrician, but I am not here for the simplest answer. I have been burned in the past with an electrician whom I would certainly not use again, after watching him tap into the nearest circuits without even performing load calcs on those circuits or finding out what else was on them. I know there are many good electricians, but a better understanding on my end helps me to find one of the better ones.
Again, this house has stood for many years in the state it is in now. I am the new owner and I do not feel that waiting a couple of days while I determine whether to replace the entire sub panel and downstream wiring, even possibly the main panel, rather than just changing the fuses really qualifies me as being over my head. I am still evaluating what to do.
Bless his kind heart Drick was trying to be polite but made an error on the grounding conductor. I have been honest with you even if you find my post offensive or not. I am simply stating the facts as I see them and the installation of a conductor between the two panels will solve nothing.
I appreciate both of your responses on this and am glad I have the answer.
I have answered your question to the fullest. What I did not do was give you some misleading information just to make you feel good. My answers were straight to the point just as they are now. This is a project that is way over your head and something you should not try to attempt. This is a job for someone with the proper training in the field and is way above a do-it-yourself job.
I appreciate the answers to your questions, and I certainly do not want misleading information. It was the saying that my knowledge of current flow is nil simply because I had not changed the fuses yet that was offensive.