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Thread: how to fine tune 30/50 pressure switch?

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    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    Default how to fine tune 30/50 pressure switch?

    Square D with lever, has 2 posts for adjustment, the center proudest stud for Range"turn nut down for higher cut-in, or up for lower cut-in. I thought this one is for raising overall pressure??

    lower stud off to side is Differential "turn nut down for higher cut-out pressure or up(loosen) for lower cut-out-so this one is used for overall higher pressure?

    I can't seem to get the pump to come on later-say when she goes down to 30psi? I turned pump off and drained, when gauge hits BAM! switch clicks and gauge drops to 0.

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    In the trades WellWaterProducts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billfig View Post
    Square D with lever, has 2 posts for adjustment, the center proudest stud for Range"turn nut down for higher cut-in, or up for lower cut-in. I thought this one is for raising overall pressure??

    lower stud off to side is Differential "turn nut down for higher cut-out pressure or up(loosen) for lower cut-out-so this one is used for overall higher pressure?

    I can't seem to get the pump to come on later-say when she goes down to 30psi? I turned pump off and drained, when gauge hits BAM! switch clicks and gauge drops to 0.
    How much air pressure is in the tank?
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  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    exactly 28 lbs. empty.

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    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    The big spring (proudest) if tightened, will increase both the kick-in and the kick-out. The small spring if tightened, will increase only the kick-out.

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    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    well I currently have it at 34-35 kick-in and 52 kick-out using trial/error since logic doesn't seem to work? sure would like to get the spread further apart...wish it were that easy!
    I would love to see it in operation at say 30-55...

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    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Tightening on the small adjustment screw will widen the bandwidth between on and off. But why do you want to do this??

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    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    well I adj.the tank psi to 28 per a 30/50 sw. and would like to at least try the 30 cut-in....then an extra 5 for the heck of it.
    I just can't seem to ever get that cut-in below 34?

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    In the trades WellWaterProducts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billfig View Post
    well I adj.the tank psi to 28 per a 30/50 sw. and would like to at least try the 30 cut-in....then an extra 5 for the heck of it.
    I just can't seem to ever get that cut-in below 34?
    I'm sure of your overall strategy here but here goes:

    Loosen the nut on the tall spring a few turns, that will lower the cut-in
    Tighten the nut on the short one to raise the cut-out.


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  9. #9
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Then loosen on the big screw to lower the cut in pressure. (one round = 3 PSI) Most people want an extra 5 or 10 pounds "for the heck of it" to try and get a little extra run time. All you are doing is overstretching the bladder and shortening the tanks life. When I go to a pump system where someone has widened the bandwidth, I know they are trying to reduce the cycling.

  10. #10
    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WellWaterProducts View Post
    I'm sure of your overall strategy here but here goes:

    Loosen the nut on the tall spring a few turns, that will lower the cut-in
    Tighten the nut on the short one to raise the cut-out.
    Yea I kinda tried it with my valve closed to house and switch off but on recheck, I had a time getting pump to start?
    I'll go try it again with pump on, it's almost like I could take the nut right off of the range/main stud, once the gauge drops to 34 it clicks and water drain just immediately stops too








    Quote Originally Posted by valveman View Post
    Then loosen on the big screw to lower the cut in pressure. (one round = 3 PSI) Most people want an extra 5 or 10 pounds "for the heck of it" to try and get a little extra run time. All you are doing is overstretching the bladder and shortening the tanks life. When I go to a pump system where someone has widened the bandwidth, I know they are trying to reduce the cycling.
    So the 20psi differential rule is a "Golden Rule" to strictly adhere too.....

  11. #11
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    You can keep the 20 PSI spread and increase the cycle time a little by increasing the pressure. GPM from the pump generally diminishes with pressure so at 20-40, the GPM will be more than at 60-80. The GPM through the fixtures however increase with pressure, so your showerhead will put out more GPM at 60-80 than at 20-40. The two combined will result in the pump cycling less during a shower.

  12. #12
    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    I loosened large/range adjuster 3 twists of ratchet(a tad over 1 full turn) no change. I then loosened it another 3 twists, no change?
    I noticed when draining gauge gets to 35 and 3 things happen, gauge drops to 0, cut-in clicks and drain is empty(and closed by me at that point) then gauge slowly begins ascending then at 20 it jumps to 40 and pumping begins? Goes to 51psi and stops

  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    You can keep the 20 PSI spread and increase the cycle time a little by increasing the pressure. GPM from the pump generally diminishes with pressure so at 20-40, the GPM will be more than at 60-80. The GPM through the fixtures however increase with pressure, so your showerhead will put out more GPM at 60-80 than at 20-40. The two combined will result in the pump cycling less during a shower.
    wow thats pretty interesting! But running a 40-60 must be more taxing on the submersible pump? Why all the different pressures?

  14. #14
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    If the pressure drops really fast from 35 to 0, it probably means that the precharge on the tank is too high and that at 35, there is no more water in the tank.

    As for how the pump surges from 20 to 40, again if the bladder precharge is too high, there is nowhere for the pressure to go until it exceeds the precharge. Also, the pump uses pressure to make pressure so you will notice a performance curve.

  15. #15
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billfig View Post
    Why all the different pressures?
    I don't understand the question. The higher the pressure the less the 20 PSI differential is felt. Taking a shower between 20-40 is medeocre at best. Taking a shower at 60-80 is wowzers. Somewhere in between is where one settles depending on personal preference versus pump capacity.

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