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Thread: First chlorination; How do I open my well?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member
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    Default First chlorination; How do I open my well?

    Hi everyone,

    I need to do chlorination of my well, I read the instructions, and everything seems clear except a tiny thing - how do I actually open the well???





    As you can see One of the screws is right below the water pipe; also there was a plastic PVC seal on top of an air pipe (???) which fell off... Can I put bleach through that pipe?
    Last edited by novas; 02-26-2011 at 08:10 AM.

  2. #2
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Spin the sillcock off and dump it on down

  3. #3
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    you mean I need to remove the sillcock, and leave the well seal with the connecting pipe as is??? Sorry

  4. #4
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Do not remove the hose bib. You would be pouring chlorine into the well outlet pipe, which should be impossible due to the check valve.

    You are all set for chlorinating and recirculating. The recirc part is the most important.

    Add the correct amount of chlorine liquid through the broken off poly pipe fitting threaded hole, into which you will place a nipple riser and a hose thread adapter.

    Connect the hose bib outlet to a washing machine hose on one end and the other end on the new riser where you poured the chlorine. You could even add another hose bib on the new pipe riser as your closeable "inlet" port.

    Run water down the well for perhaps a half hour or more. shut it off.

    Now run water at all taps until you smell chlorine. Shut it down and let it sit 24 hours. Likely repeat. Flush it out good after each process.

    You dont need to fool with the cap, but you need to get that cap SEALED and covered.
    Last edited by ballvalve; 02-26-2011 at 10:02 AM.

  5. #5
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Ballvalve is right, there is no need to fool with the well seal. Work through the vent fitting.

    Unless you normally have a doghouse over the well, that electrical junction box should be replaced with one approved for wet use.
    Last edited by cacher_chick; 02-26-2011 at 01:56 PM.

  6. #6
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    sorry guys I had a major brain cramp there, indeed filling it through the sillcock opening would not work Duh..... yes, use the vent.

  7. #7
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    Thank you everyone! Especially ballvalve - thank you for the detailed answer.

  8. #8
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    Ballvalve said it best. Lastly, replace the broken off poly pipe fitting with a new vent pipe. The well needs to be vented.
    Porky Cutter, MGWC
    (Master Ground Water Consultant)

  9. #9
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    When chlorine is used to disinfect water there is a reduction in the ability of the chlorine to disinfect; call it chlorine demand. Let's say there is 200 ppm total chlorine at the beginning of the disinfection process, the end of running the water back down the well. Let's say there is 1 ppm of iron, that takes 4-5 ppm to oxidize the iron, 200-5 = Free chlorine of 195 ppm. Any manganese uses part of the total chlorine as all the killed bacteria does also.

    Disinfection does not work well or at all if the water is dirty. Oxidizing iron, manganese, H2S etc. etc. and killing bacteria all have a chlorine demand that also causes dirty discolored water.

    To get rid of the dirty water you must flush it out of the plumbing or you're wasting your time and probably will find you still have a bacteria problem after shocking and retesting. Flushing the dirty used chlorinated water out of the plumbing draws in fresh chlorinated water from the well and if you do that for like 10 seconds at cold water fauctes only every 15-30 minutes over a few hours, you eventually find clear water with a strong smell of chlorine in it being used in the plumbing instead of dirty water. That accomplishes a true complete disinfection of the system.

    Drawing chlorinated water into the plumbing and letting it sit stagnant for many hours, like 24, and then running off all the chlorinated water (not into a septic system) does not.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  10. #10
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    The health dept around here suggests 24 hours. If I had a lot of old steel pipe I would do a lot less time.

    I one time got a house to pass coli that had pumped dirty crud water for years. But it loosened up the insides of the old pipe so much that I finally repiped the place with pex. Would have needed it anyway however.

    I have my doubt about that amount of 'spent' chlorine hurting septics. I think 20 gallons of pool chlorine would not begin to kill off the bugs in the average tank and field. And it would never make it to the field anyway.

  11. #11
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Yeah and the government is wrong on a lot of other things too. For years I did a lot of shocking of wells for the VA and FHA per "government" suggestions. Many showed contamination after shocking so I decided to come up with a better way and came up with what I described above by experimentation. I found it works best by doing follow up testing up to 2-3 weeks later and rarely found any problems as I used to with the "government" and others' suggested way. It works on galvanized too.

    The water in the well has free chlorine in it and that can harm a septic or it should be assumed that it might, so I advise not putting it in a septic system. And some guys use way too much bleach by a number of gallons.
    Last edited by Gary Slusser; 02-27-2011 at 01:09 PM.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  12. #12
    In the trades WellWaterProducts's Avatar
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    This arrangement would be much nicer with a pitless adaptor and a well cap. I see that it's in NC so the line would not have to be buried but having the cap and the pump support independent of each other is more service-friendly.

  13. #13
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    The well is already open. Any bug or animal that finds its way to the top of that broken fitting in the well seal will be sucked down into your water. This is probably WHY you should chlorinate the well. After you get the well and pipe disinfected, make sure you put two elbows together so that open fitting points down. Then use a good screen over the inlet to the first elbow to keep out the critters.

  14. #14
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Nobody vents wells around here - whats the deal?

  15. #15
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    My well cap is not airtight and I doubt the OP's is either.

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