DSWalter
New Member
I took the line from the pressure switch to the pump and it is clear. I will check the air pressure at the tank. Thanks for your advice!
Advice on Bladder tank
- Thread starter Billfig
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DSWalter
New Member
Actually, the gauge at the pump says 38. I checked the tank and it says 29. The pump is a jet pump above ground. The gauge does stay up to about 38 when the pump is off and there is perhaps a couple of gallons of water when it is off.
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Air pressure gauge says 29 PSI while the water pressure gauge says 38? If so, I would try a different air pressure gauge and a different water pressure gauge. They have water pressure gauges that will fit onto a garden hose thread.
Regarding the jet pump, does one pipe go from the pump to the casing, or two?
Jet pump holding at low pressure usually means your jet nozzle is clogged up.
DSWalter
New Member
Well, I am not sure about the nozzle, but there are two pipes to the pump.
Texas Wellman
In the Trades
Yup, plugged nozzle in the jet. Only way to fix is to pull it. If you've got a big enough well go back with a submersible pump. You won't be sorry.
DSWalter
New Member
Thanks much everyone for your help! I guess I have my work cut out for me.
DSWalter
New Member
Have been working on the pump again today. I have drained the tank and have no air pressure at all which would indicate to me that the air bladder is gone. Also, I put air into the tank and then tried to refill it. When I did so, the pressure at the air valve continued to climb and went to 35 lbs, but would not go higher. Any thoughts on this?
Probably a bad bladder, but it could be a bad air pump. Can you pump 40 PSI into your spare tire as a test? I like to keep more air in the spare. 
Well-X-Trol is a top brand. If I ever have to change mine I expect I will either use that or I will use Flexcon Flex-lite. The Flex-lite is fiberglass rather than steel. Both of those use a diaphragm rather than a bladder. Diaphragm is longer lived. http://www.flexconind.com/pdf/fl_features.pdf Make sure that you get one with enough draw-down that will cause the pump to run at least a minute each time.
And converting to a submersible as Texas Wellman suggests is good if you can swing it and if your casing is big enough. It is much quieter, reliable. It takes maybe half as many HP to perform a given job. Submersible never needs priming.
Well-X-Trol is a top brand. If I ever have to change mine I expect I will either use that or I will use Flexcon Flex-lite. The Flex-lite is fiberglass rather than steel. Both of those use a diaphragm rather than a bladder. Diaphragm is longer lived. http://www.flexconind.com/pdf/fl_features.pdf Make sure that you get one with enough draw-down that will cause the pump to run at least a minute each time.
And converting to a submersible as Texas Wellman suggests is good if you can swing it and if your casing is big enough. It is much quieter, reliable. It takes maybe half as many HP to perform a given job. Submersible never needs priming.
DSWalter
New Member
Thanks for the info, Reach4. I think I will try another tank. Actually, I don't know where the well is. I cannot find a casing anywhere. The people who lived here sometime before we came must have added our downstairs bathroom and I know there is a cistern under there and think the well might be there also. If that is the case I don't know how to get to it to put a submersible pump down. If that is the case, I don't know how to get to the nozzle to clear it up, either. So....we'll see what a new tank does. Thanks again.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
How much air pressure did you manage to get in and did it hold? If it would not hold it, your bladder is shot. A bad bladder however will not stop the pump from building more than 35 PSI while it is running.
Did it climb to 35 but no higher when the jet pump was running? If so, you have a plugged jet.
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