Multistage Jet Pump for higher pressure?

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Justwater

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Franklin also makes a shallow well jet pump that ships with 3 different venturi nozzles.
the "versajet". i've been using them for a while now, they are nice pumps.. and quiet. i'm not sure if i would say they are good as the goulds j-series pumps though.. i'm a longtime fan of them, they are near bulletproof. i really havent had any trouble with the versajets at all though, i guess time will tell. .. i never had trouble out of the starite shallow jets either for that matter.
 

Scavenger

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So the Gould J5SH isn't self priming? The reason I ask is you guys said to avoid a self priming pump. One write-up I saw on the J5SH says "After initial priming the pump has the ability to re-prime itself even when air gets into the system. Pumping resumes once the water level rises above the foot valve." That made me think is was self priming. What's a reasonable price for this pump? I see it at $265 (www.lockewell.com), $302 (www.expresspump.com), up to $550+. $265 seems like a steal compared to the average prices I'm seeing. Was worried the seller might have a bad reputation. Anyone dealt with them in the past? Thanks again.
 

Justwater

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if i were u and the sub was out of the question, i might look at the goulds J7S or probably even the J10S.. 3/4 or 1hp... just to get the added volume being as how you are pulling from such a long run and at the 12' lift. some may argue it could be overkill, but your tank is big enough that it should be fine. this way there are no worries during those times when water is in higher demand. toss in one of valvemans cycle stop valves and thats about as close to city water volume/pressure as you can get.



i still think there is something else going on thats restricting your volume/pressure though..
 
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Scavenger

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I looks like the J7S and J10S could exceed the GPM rating of my UV light. Shouldn't I avoid them for that reason?

I'll check the aerator on the kitchen sink once some explains how to get at it.
 

LLigetfa

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I think the 12 foot rise combined with the 200 foot long 1" suction hose will limit your GPM long before the UV light. Unless you have an insanely high output pump getting throttled beyond the PSI rating of the piping, a cycle stop valve does the same thing, flow limit below the max a pump is rated for without issue.
 

LLigetfa

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I am not a pump expert and what I say is probably not what you want to hear, but my understanding of the rule of a max of 25 feet of lift, I believe to be sound.

A pump that can draw a perfect vacuum can lift around 25 feet only because the pressure of the atmosphere can only push the water up that high. Any higher and you get what's called a vacuum break whereby the column of water falls down to about 25 feet. This is the same principle as a mercury barometer but mercury is heavier so it breaks in inches instead of feet.

A better pump won't do much better at sucking. The real answer is to go with a submersible and push the water instead. Ja, I understand the reluctance of having to bury 200 feet of expensive copper wire but IMHO, a bigger jet pump won't do a whole lot better. I think it's throwing good money after bad. I think your former pumpman advised you poorly from the get-go.

This is the last time I will mention it. Do as you wish. I will not get into a pissing match with pumpmen on this forum.
 

Gary Slusser

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We don't know what type of pipe is used for the 200; run and now we here about a manifold PEX distribution system.

IF it were mine, it would have had a submersible in the lake to start with and now I'd replace the jet with one as soon as the ice went away.

I suspect that IF there is a pressure/volume problem other than the type of pump and 200' of suction with possibly PVC, it very possibly is a blocked inlet in the lake or the jet in the pump.
 

Tom Sawyer

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Is he pulling directly from the lake? I read lake house but it's not clear where the well is to me. Anyway if it is the lake the pump inlet and or the jet probably do have some crap in them. Very common problem.
 

Tom Sawyer

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oooh then I think I would be checking the inlet screen and probably rod the jet out too
 

Scavenger

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Yes, directly from the lake. Here's the details on the 200' line.

CARAPACE is the only product Heat-Line recommends for use with constant pressure water supply systems. CARAPACE is constructed using a high density NSF STD 14 approved polyethylene pipe for potability. The self-regulating heating cable is extruded directly onto the outer surface of the pipe. The extruded layer is of high density polyethylene which provides a protective shell to guard against mechanical injury while ensuring the conductive cores of the heating cable remain in unyielding contact with the pipe wall.
 

Scavenger

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Can't check the inlet screen until that pesky ice is gone, but I can check the jet to see if its in need of cleaning. I haven't done that since the system was installed. I should probably add that to my list of yearly maintenance items.

Thanks everyone for all the input.
 

WellWaterProducts

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I'm curious, are you really getting 50 psi at the tank or is the gauge on the pump? Maybe I overlooked a detail here but at the very least the pressure switch should be after the filter/uv arrangement. I agree with moving the treatment devices.
 

Justwater

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I'm with u WWP.. id like for the op to check the tank with a tire gauge when pump shuts off.

I was looking at the specs on that pump. capable of 68psi.. looks like an ordinary starite 3/4 jet pump to me. I'm thinking it should probably be ok.. I mean as far as jet pumps go.

I still say if u are getting 50 psi at the tank by the house, you should have descent pressure in the house. ur manifold, ur fixtures, something. sometimes I have to install a hose bib at the pump and tank so I can open it and prove to a customer that the water system is not the reason they don't have any pressure in the home.
 

Gary Slusser

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OK on the PE pipe from the lake.

I think the comparison of a privatre water source system to city water and expecting the two to be comparable is the problem. The 50 psi becomes 30 psi fairly soon and that fluctuation is very noticeable to city folks. But then 21 days is usually all that's needed to stop, or start, any good or bad habit... lol

What sucking dirt into the water line prevention is there on the water line inlet in the lake? How far off the bottom of the lake is it? Any ice fishermen could open the ice for you to maybe get to the inlet to lift it off the bottom and shake it some. Or use the ice to hold it up off the bottom until spring.
 

Scavenger

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The inlet is a PVC sand point that is installed vertically, pointing up, mounted in a concrete pad.

The gauge is at the tank, not the pump.
 

Justwater

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isnt the pump and tank close together? the gauge could be giving you a false reading. when pump cuts off, check the tanks schrader valve with a tire gauge to make sure the system gauge is accurate. you ever figure out how to get at the aerator in the kitchen faucet?
 

Scavenger

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The tank and pump are in the same room. The pump guy moved the pressure switch from the pump
to the tank because the sediment filters in between the two.

I check the pressure at the tank. The tire gauge read 37 PSI while the gauge beside the pressure
switch reads 38 PSI.

Yes, I did get the aerator out. I emailed Delta. They were very helpful. They asked for a picture
to identify the model. It turns out there's a small allen screw holding the aerator in place. You'd
never see it if you weren't looking for it.
 
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