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Thread: Ready to get a new softener

  1. #31
    DIY Member SemiHandyRon's Avatar
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    Running a manual regeneration now. No air bubbles noted in Brine Draw tube. All is well! Thanks much.

  2. #32
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    The instructions to install the black and white parts are wrong. And both parts can be white or black; it is their shape and then the order that they go on the brine line that counts.

    The nut goes on the brine line first with the threads toward the end of the brine line, then the white fitting so the thickest (flat) end is toward the end of the brine line and then the thick end of the black split ring ferrule so the sharp pointy end is toward the end of the brine line so it fits inside the tapper inside of the elbow, as you tighten the nut.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  3. #33
    DIY Member SemiHandyRon's Avatar
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    I'm stunned...and annoyed! Thanks, Gary!!

  4. #34
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    So who is correct?

    The photo that shows the nut, the black then the white with the tube insert?

    Or is the photo backwards? nut then white and then black with the tube insert?

    Think that we should start a poll to find out what others have done with this set up to see what works and what has not worked ....

    I say that the photo lay out is correct.

  5. #35
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    The air leak stopped. Can't argue with results. I rest my case.

  6. #36
    DIY Member JKERN's Avatar
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    The photo layout is the only way I've ever done it ot seen it done. The split in the ferrule would contradict giving a tight water proof seal don't you think?

  7. #37
    DIY Member SemiHandyRon's Avatar
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    There is indeed a split in the ferrule. Although it seems logical that the tapered end would go in first, does this split allow air leakage? I suppose I could hot-foot it down to Home Depot and buy a couple without a split.
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  8. #38
    DIY Member JKERN's Avatar
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    I would put it on like it says and go a little over hand tight and you should be fine. The only time I've ever had any trouble with these connections was when someone did not tighten them enough. Just do it like that picture showed tighten and call it good you should be ok.

  9. #39
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SemiHandyRon View Post
    There is indeed a split in the ferrule. Although it seems logical that the tapered end would go in first, does this split allow air leakage? I suppose I could hot-foot it down to Home Depot and buy a couple without a split.
    Sorry for the confusion (I was wrong). I saw the brass nut in the picture and brass nuts used a different ferrule, pointed on both ends with no split and no 'white' fitting but, that was for the old 2300 (brass) brine valve, not for the new 2310 (plastic) valve. Then I got turned around and questioned myself but didn't go look it up and said the order and direction was wrong.

    Since it is a Fleck design, below is a Fleck picture. Notice there are two pairs of these fittings, one for the brine line connection and one on the bottom of the 2310 valve on the brine pickup tube that goes to the bottom of the tank.

    The split in the ferrule is so the ferrule can compress into the taper of the nut. BTW, I've never seen the ferrule you posted a picture of and I can't see the diagonal split.

    Name:  2310 valve DIA.jpg
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    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  10. #40
    DIY Member SemiHandyRon's Avatar
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    Many thanks for the due diligence!

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